And I know people who have done Ro, but can't do Stay. Hell, ROTCS might be harder then both of them.
Wes
ro 12a
I think Ro is hard. Harder than other .12's I've done. Anything feels "easy" once you get it dialed.
A good soft .12, if you're interested, is Wild Yet Tasty. A few others are Check Your Grip, Flying Monkeys, and the Happy Fisherman. Personally, I think Ro is harder than all of these.
Z, you should check out the Return of Chris Snyder. That's always been one of my all time favorite routes. It's beautiful, challenging, and doesn't see nearly as much traffic as Ro.
I think the best way to climb .12's is to climb a bunch of .11's. You'll get strong and gain the confidence you need in the process. And the Red has a TON of bad ass 11's!
A good soft .12, if you're interested, is Wild Yet Tasty. A few others are Check Your Grip, Flying Monkeys, and the Happy Fisherman. Personally, I think Ro is harder than all of these.
Z, you should check out the Return of Chris Snyder. That's always been one of my all time favorite routes. It's beautiful, challenging, and doesn't see nearly as much traffic as Ro.
I think the best way to climb .12's is to climb a bunch of .11's. You'll get strong and gain the confidence you need in the process. And the Red has a TON of bad ass 11's!
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
I guess I need to get back on Ro, to see how it compares. I have been distracted by other routes at roadside the last few times I have been there. I also have *trick* handjam beta for the top, which takes away what many people think of as a redpoint crux - I can hang the anchor draws / clip the chains from the last bolt without having to do the extra moves up and left.
I like the backfill way of progression. Pick a couple hard routes that inspire you and that will force you to get better, work and send them, then fill in the easier routes.
Wes
I like the backfill way of progression. Pick a couple hard routes that inspire you and that will force you to get better, work and send them, then fill in the easier routes.
Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
Zspider, several years ago I climbed Ro and onsighted it. It was a proud moment for me. I later proudly proclaimed that I did my first 5.12 onsight. Then I was told it was really 11d, therefore I found some other 12a's (at New River) and onsighted them.
Last edited by J-Rock on Fri Jan 14, 2005 3:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
you did fuzzy undercling!? great! that's just been upgraded to 12b. not only did you break into the 12s but you broke into it in a big way. and better than all of that, would you have ever thought today was going to be the big day? i bet not. gotta love the surprises when you climb.. have a beer on me tonight to celebrate
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
I think you're just teasing me (quit it! ), but you might be talking about Gung Ho, Paul. It recently went from a 12a to a 12b. I think a hold broke off near the top. Larry Boger and I spent some pleasant summer days out there at Military last season. We would warm up on the 9s and 10s, and then I'd work the Fuzz and Larry would work Gung Ho. Good times. Great times.Paul3eb wrote:you did fuzzy undercling!? great! that's just been upgraded to 12b. not only did you break into the 12s but you broke into it in a big way. and better than all of that, would you have ever thought today was going to be the big day? i bet not. gotta love the surprises when you climb.. have a beer on me tonight to celebrate
I'm really sorta surprised that Fuzz has maintained its 11b status. There's that tricky thing at the bottom but then it's wonderful wrap-your-hands-around-em jugs the rest of the way.
ZSpider
Michelle you are right on about Return of Chris Synder. Although I have only led it once I thought the route was much better thgan Ro although Ro has a more technical move on it. ROCS is just an area classic. Strictly endurance route with an amazing bat-man no hands rest!! SWEET! And if your small enough you can crawl up inside on the ledge!
As far as Ro being a 12a I wouldn't be able to tell you. I have been on ROCS and felt it is more pumpy then Ro and if thats the case then Ro is 11d at the most!
Who knows it's all subjective. People have different strengths and climbing techniques than others.
As far as Ro being a 12a I wouldn't be able to tell you. I have been on ROCS and felt it is more pumpy then Ro and if thats the case then Ro is 11d at the most!
Who knows it's all subjective. People have different strengths and climbing techniques than others.
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.
Ro ---- how'd it get to be so popular? One move wonder.. crowded..etc.. It is a steep fun juggy route but you can say that about most routes at the Red
it's not .12a anywhere imo. Every .11d I've been on at the Red seemed harder and some of them much harder like ROCS (ROCS absolutely should not be compared to Ro as it is a monumental route and is way harder and superbly better quality than Ro.) or Ethics Police at SC. I"ve done 2 11c's at Shady Grove that are more difficult than Ro.
I'd say Ro is .11b, .11c tops and ROCS is 11d/.12a
I'm totally with Wes on the soft entry grade routes. You send Ro and then go get on ROCS or Bare Metal Teen or Kick me in the Jimmie or Chainsaw or Twinkie-- ouch yes that's your ego lying there in a puddle on the floor.
What's the point of working an entry level grade, spraying about it getting laughed at for sending a ".12a" that really isn't .12a anyway? You still get bouted on 5.11's and probably barely get to the top of solid .12a. This will continue to until you climb a bunch more 11s which will improve technique and fitness.
and most debates on the internet go around in tired circles doesn't really matter what the topic is either. sandy have you been climbing for 30 years, wow cool
it's not .12a anywhere imo. Every .11d I've been on at the Red seemed harder and some of them much harder like ROCS (ROCS absolutely should not be compared to Ro as it is a monumental route and is way harder and superbly better quality than Ro.) or Ethics Police at SC. I"ve done 2 11c's at Shady Grove that are more difficult than Ro.
I'd say Ro is .11b, .11c tops and ROCS is 11d/.12a
I'm totally with Wes on the soft entry grade routes. You send Ro and then go get on ROCS or Bare Metal Teen or Kick me in the Jimmie or Chainsaw or Twinkie-- ouch yes that's your ego lying there in a puddle on the floor.
What's the point of working an entry level grade, spraying about it getting laughed at for sending a ".12a" that really isn't .12a anyway? You still get bouted on 5.11's and probably barely get to the top of solid .12a. This will continue to until you climb a bunch more 11s which will improve technique and fitness.
and most debates on the internet go around in tired circles doesn't really matter what the topic is either. sandy have you been climbing for 30 years, wow cool
"Good things take time, impossible things take a little longer"
Percy Gerutty
Percy Gerutty