RRC Archives

I guess I onsight every route I climb......until i fall...

or maybe I just fall after I onsight it......part way...

or maybe I just dont send the route and its not an onsight at all

You've never heard someone say "I onsighted to the 5th bolt."? Its called honest reporting. I never claimed to have sent the route, and never would. In fact, I'd say my "ethics" are probably way more strict than yours are. Oh....and bite me, bitch.

Go climb it. You'll understand.

I never went back because I didn't feel it was worth it. It would be an awesome route if the rock were solid, but its not even close. I broke the only hold in the flaring section off, and I think that if 25 more people tried it, the flaring section could be whittled down to nothing.

Regardless, its on my tick list now so that Cap. Static can rest in peace....

you were very honest

I was just trying to be funny, I will have to work on that. I think it is a funny thread

512OW wrote:Its a super-flaring, super shallow acute dihedral at the top. When I say super shallow, I mean inches. That creates some really cool and crazy moves.

Captain Static, if it'd make you happy, we'll go out there one day when it starts to warm back up, and you can take pics while I send it.....

I don't remember it as being that sandy back in the day. Due to the popularity of this area for rappelling there has been a lot of erosion from the top down onto the cliff. I think the flaring aspect of the top is pretty cool. SCIN described this crux section as being more like a Horsepens bouldering problem than an OW. Yeah, I'd definitely be up for going out there for a photo shoot. I've got a few pics of the whole route that I guess I'll have to track down & scan to put in the photo album.

smack on...

I'd love to see one of you yahoos go out there and do this fucking line. I'm tired of the same ole debate around here (hell its been going on since the days of kywilderness). If memory serves OW tried to send the thing a few years ago, even had a picture of him in some glossy climbing rag. Fact of the matter is that he didn't, but he's been talking smack about it ever since. And Static come on man, I know you did it once back before half of us around here were born but let it go...or go do it again and then tell OW to shut up. Better yet let the great OW prodigy Yasi -fugazzi put both of ya jokers in your place by onsighting then down grading the thing.

...smack off

Steve must have had some Wheaties this morning or something.

I only talk about it when it comes up.

Static...I don't doubt that it wasn't sandy years ago, but it must have been sandy as hell when Will was "working" it. I can't imagine it all of a sudden got supersandy and soft. And it must have been soft for ages, cuz theres half inch deep rope marks in the rock (which I avoided for fear of it not being a "free" ascent"), which I tend to think are toprope marks, since the area was also a popular toprope area for the UC mountaineering club. Plus, the popular rappel spot is a ways to the left of the route.

Unfortunately those rope marks are from rappellers. They'll rap off anywhere they can along there. All the TRing is on the wall to the right. Mostly beginner stuff, 5.2 to 5.4 - But now it is hard to even TR because the rappellers have collared all the anchor trees and they are either dead or gone. There are brown streaks of soil down the cliff from erosion. That whole area has been trashed from what it used to be like when I first started going down to the Gorge. Sad.

512OW wrote: Regardless....I got some 5.9's for ya.....

Yeah, I know. I found half your rack in one of them just last week.

Glad you found it. You'll need it with the way you sew shit up.