Redpoint attempts

Post by **Wes** » Wed Dec 08, 2004 11:50 am

It is funky sometimes when you hit a low crux, but know you still have 70 more feet of climbing to go. Like Disappereer or stay the hand. When I hit the low crux my second thought (right after Oh, shit I didn't fall), was "now I have to do the rest of this thing without falling". Climbing smart is the key for sure. Milk the rests and make the easy parts easy.

Wes

Post by **Spragwa** » Wed Dec 08, 2004 12:31 pm

Wes, those were my exact thoughts on There Goes the Neighborhood. After the second crux, I thought, Holy crap, I've got 70 feet to really blow this. He he.

Post by **allah** » Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:34 pm

512OW wrote:muscle memory muscle memory muscle memory.

Alan Watts once built up to hanging for nearly a minute from a pinky jam that today he can't hang off of at all.

muscle memory.

Thats because he is old and almost over the hill, just like you are getting

Post by **pawilkes** » Wed Dec 08, 2004 6:13 pm

i generally don't work routes for a few reasons but I had been getting on Centerfire alot and i wanted to send the damn thing. i finally managed to get the route clean one day when i warmed up on it. i had no expectations what-so-ever of sending it b/c i was warmed up at all. i think what got me up finally was a lack of expectations...that and a nice rest that someone told me about:)

Post by **ynot** » Wed Dec 08, 2004 11:56 pm

I thought you were afraid I wouldn't catch you. nice send.

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 4:30 am

I don't like to project routes. I'd rather climb several good moderate routes and a few hard ones than one super hard climb. Onsight climbing is my favorite thing to do. Generally I have a 3 fall rule. If I fall 3 times on a route then I move on to another one or come back another day when I'm feeling stronger. However, for bouldering I don't have a 3 try rule... more like 30.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 3:57 pm

I'm like you for the most part-- there have been a few routes that have inspired me to keep trying them, though. Sick Puppies was one of those... what an awesome route!

Post by **Wes** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 4:01 pm

Yep, sometimes is it cool to *work* a route, but sometimes that can become like work or something where you have to go to that crag, and you have to give it so many burns a day or whatever. That isn't fun.

And, Sick Puppies is a cool route. One of my favorite ones.

Wes