Page 2 of 5
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 2:36 am
by haas
ok so I parked in the pulloff on the right side, just past Black Death. I hiked straight up the steep hill to the right of Black Death until the I reached the main wall that runs parallel with the parking area. Immediatley on the left was a short dihedral that was probably 10 ft. high at around 5.2. Way over to the right was a really wet wall that I assume was the 5.8 route Sideshow. On top of the ledge was an overhanging pocket wall that looked like people may have bouldered it. There was a good shelf about 10ft. up on the wall that looked like a juggy rail, but I never saw a crack. The ledge went only 60ft. maybe to the left before it took a sharp turn and looked like the rock sort of peeters out. It becomes slabby with moss and bushes and the trail just ends. It looked like you could still work your way further left but it looked like no one else had and that it was all shrubs and a pain in the ass to bushwack. I did not see any crack, especially any hand crack. Does the crack run the length of the route or is it discontinuous?
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 3:10 am
by SCIN
Man, that is weird. It sounds like you were right there. However, once you climb the short dihedral, the ledge you walk along is pretty wide. I'm pretty sure you shoud've walked around the corner (where you said the rock took a sharp turn). Man, maybe somebody changed it around. Since you live so far away you don't need to be wasting your time looking for routes. If I drive by it this weekend I'll run up and get a better image in my head and let you know (unless you're coming down anyway).
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 4:05 am
by 5120W
Man, why would you so called crack climbers want to do a route like that anyway? Might as well just head down the road and go to left flank with the rest of the sheepeople. I can't stand you fucking poser assed sport climbers that think you are so hot just because you can crimp. Big deal. Just because I can't crimp all that well, doesn't mean I am not a BAD ASS TRAD CLIMBER. So put that in you pipe and smoke it.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 7:34 am
by 512OW
DAng...I'm a bad ass.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 12:48 pm
by haas
yo bad ass, the description says thin hands. I obviously haven't seen it so I don't know about all this hard crimping you're talking about. I'm just looking for some good trad lines where there's no crowds. Thanks for the recon SCIN, appreciate it.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 12:57 pm
by t bone
Its a fun climb haas, but its hard to believe you couldnt find it. Just go up the short little dihedral and keep walking left.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 1:37 pm
by Don McGlone
After it got downgraded to 5.9, I thought I would give it a shot. So I went up there feeling really confident ready to send. After about 10 feet of the hardest climbing I'd ever attempted, I took a grounder. My belayer carried me out and got me to the hospital to find out that I had broken my back. So after 6 months of rehab, visualization, yoga, and reading the Warrior's Way 4 times, I felt I was really ready this time. So I returned, only to make it about 12 feet this time. My ego was crushed. How could I return to tell my climbing buds that I had failed again. I lost my job obsessing over this route. I couldn't sleep at night. Days turned to weeks, weeks to months. Finally, I couldn't take it any more. I filled the crack in with concrete. That's why you can't find it. I think I'll kill myself now.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 1:38 pm
by longlegsrule
Don McGlone wrote:After it got downgraded to 5.9, I thought I would give it a shot. So I went up there feeling really confident ready to send. After about 10 feet of the hardest climbing I'd ever attempted, I took a grounder. My belayer carried me out and got me to the hospital to find out that I had broken my back. So after 6 months of rehab, visualization, yoga, and reading the Warrior's Way 4 times, I felt I was really ready this time. So I returned, only to make it about 12 feet this time. My ego was crushed. How could I return to tell my climbing buds that I had failed again. I lost my job obsessing over this route. I couldn't sleep at night. Days turned to weeks, weeks to months. Finally, I couldn't take it any more. I filled the crack in with concrete. That's why you can't find it. I think I'll kill myself now.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 3:16 pm
by Horatio Felacio
5120W wrote:Just because I can't crimp all that well, doesn't mean I am not a BAD ASS TRAD CLIMBER
you're not. you've climbed a couple 5.11+'s...big fuckin deal queer.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 3:27 pm
by Buster
Horatio Felacio wrote:5120W wrote:Just because I can't crimp all that well, doesn't mean I am not a BAD ASS TRAD CLIMBER
you're not. you've climbed a couple 5.11+'s...big fuckin deal queer.
hahahaha! fuckin' awesome!