RRC Archives

so far i haven't tried anything else, we had four people and one rope (taught two of them how to lead) plus we did some hiking and exploring so there wasn't as much time to climb. I did get in 2 leads without any falls so that was nice.

thanks for all of the help so far, i'm definitely going to hit all of those climbs up when i get back to louisville, i'm in indy studying at butler.

-peter

Lord of the Flies. It's 5.8 at the most. Almost all jugs, and overbolted like mad. (i.e. no scary run out.)

For some unknowable geological reason, the start of a lot of 'easy' climbs at the Red is the hardest part. You might want to get a clip stick* - not just as a beginner leader - pre-clipping the first (and sometimes second bolt) can really save your ass/ankles/head.

I'll second the comment to skip "Face up to that Arette" - It's "interesting", but not good for a beginner. "Mr. Bungle" at Left Flank may weird you out - once you've done it, it's fine, but it's nothing like anything you've done in the gym. I like Eureka, but I've talked to people who think its harder than it's 5.6 rating. "Lord of the Flies" is fun and easy. While you're there, watch someone do "Creature Feature", if it doesn't look too crazy, give it a try. I think getting up to the ledge is the hardest part, but the swing out from the roof is a great 'new leader' experience, with a bolt protecting you right at the roof, and once you've pulled the roof, it's super easy to the top.

If you're up for a bit of a challenge, I love "To Defy the Laws of Tradition". Getting up to the first bolt is probably the hardest moves, but there are some challenges through the rest of the route. Since the last bolt was relocated, it's much less scary getting to the anchors. I think it's a great 'first 10a'!

(* My current favorite clip stick setup is a 3 segment telescoping lightbulb changing pole with a roughly 4" spring clamp with rubber ends attached with a hose clamp. You can get all the parts in one trip to a Lowes/Home Despot. From what I've heard here, if you want to use a Squid (which can actually unclip draws) you need a stiffer pole like a painter's pole.)

The hardest part of Eureka is clipping the anchors. You get used to a lot of jugs and such for the climb but the clipping holds for the anchors are the worst holds on the entire route.

I second the comment on getting a stick clip. A lot of routes are bolted to encourage clipping.

thanks again so much to all of you

Make a stick clip out of an extendable paint roller handle and a basic spring clamp. $15 tops. It's way cheaper than having an ankle fixed after you screw it up.