OW Technique advice

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Oct 04, 2004 10:36 pm

512OW wrote:Put your back to the wall. Thats almost always the rule. Fact is...unless its super steep, the hand stacks or arm bars in a crack that wide are better than any face hold you could possibly find.

Yeah, but Sandy was asking how to determine which wall to put your back against...

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Oct 04, 2004 11:24 pm

usually it's obvious, but not on a splitter OW--not to me, anyway

Post by **Wes** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 2:30 am

ynot wrote:Wes always has the good beta.

Stay away from the brown acid, but the red wine is all good.

Wes

Post by **512OW** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 2:31 am

Well, the obvious wall. Duh. If you stick your knee in a dihedral crack, your back can only touch one wall....unless you're triple jointed in your knees and hips. It'll be the wall the crack doesn't face into.

On a splitter, its easy....keep in mind a splitter can't be in a dihedral...then its not a splitter, so you cant have your back to any wall. Heres the formula.....If it leans one way or the other....you put that knee in. It leans to the left...you use left knee....to the right....right knee. Sometimes the crack goes in at an angle. That determines the knee you use. That'll be obvious. NOW....if its just a straight in splitter, then you just choose a side. If it doglegs up high....get in it for the dogleg. If you see face holds, get in it for those....

Whichever side you choose....commit to it. Make it easy on yourself....rack your gear on the outside side of your body.

Make sense??

Post by **kneebar** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 12:51 pm

5120W brings up some great pointers. I typically rack gear on my harness for most trad lines. For OW I like to rack on a shoulder sling to keep it out of the way being able to swing it from side to side. . Also, don't expect climbing fast on OW that is aproaching chimney size, finding what works for you is half the battle. A stiff shoe works best for me for spaning cracks. Stick with it and have fun.

Post by **allah** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 4:37 pm

Have Fun????? are you kidding me? OW is terrible there is only one person seeme try an OW and no one will ever get to see it ever again

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 6:13 pm

That's not true, Allah... I only heard you try OW.

Post by **512OW** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:49 pm

I'm not a big fan of slings...but some people dig em....They just get in my damn way. Plus, if it involves a roof....they strangle you, and leave your gear hanging behind you, out of sight or reach. Also, I don't switch shoes for different styles....I find it too hard to climb on delicate face holds with stiff shoes....so I don't trust em.

However, some people swear by it. Ultimately, its what you feel comfy with that will allow your mind to be free....and not make up excuses.

Kneebars best piece of advice....."Stick with it and have fun".

OW not being fun is simply a lame excuse for those who don't like it when their weaknesses are challenged.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:56 pm

Slings really bite in chimneys to.I wasted 25.00 on one just to find that out.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:57 pm

"You say it's not appealing, we all know that's nonsense, pissing your pants when I present the process..."