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Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:13 pm
by Zspider
Meadows wrote:
Are you sure you're ready for 12s, Z?
***************
I'll hafta get back with you on that, Meadows. I'm going to start on Ro Shampo tomorrow. I'll see how it feels. If it's anywhere close to within my reach, I'd say that a carefully selected 12 might be worth starting on. My goal is to redpoint a 12 by next June.
ZSpider
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:14 pm
by Meadows
Me too.
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:15 pm
by Zspider
The lemon squeezer wrote:
TWINKIE!
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But isn't the crux on it slabby/vertical? I suck at slab-to-vertical.
ZSpider
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:19 pm
by haas
the slab is sort of technical, but once you get past that it's just a matter of hanging on. Don't forget about the upside down no handed rest near the anchors
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:21 pm
by goodguy
Z, if you get Sycronicity clean on top-rope then you should be able to get Ro way sooner than next June. More like next month! Up Yonder would be a really good next step and Ro as well.
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:30 pm
by Lateralus
as mentioned,
the 10's at roadside
10's & 11's at Torrent.
10's & 11's at Drive By
10's & 11's at the zoo
a few good 10's and 11's at Left Flank
some good shortish jug hauls at Bob Marley
rhunt's advice is very good and on par I think
jack in the Pulpit and King Me seemed more technical than juggy especially Jack, which considering what you wrote about your strengths/weaknesses will probably be harder for you to send than Fuzzy even though it's rated easier. However, they are both great routes and one of the best ways to become a better climber is to work on your weaknesses.
Twinkie's got to be the classic 12a jughaul of the red but it has a fairly technical start to get to the jughauling. check out Stay the Hand at Roadside (unless you've got big fingers) fairly straight forward jug hauling
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:54 pm
by rhunt
The point is, do as many 10's and 11's as you can to build your base. Doing 10 plus pitches of 10's and 11's in a day is the way to build the endurance to do 5.12's at the Red.
Great tick list Lateralus...Stay the Hand is an AWESOME 12a(one of my favorite) but I would consider it a powerful/bouldery route not a jug haul. The size dependant two finger pocket and then the crimp move are knid of hard.. Either way I highly recommend that route to anyone.
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:57 pm
by rhunt
Lateralus, BTW I like your signature...Tool is one of my favorite bands.
"Desensitized to everything. What became of subtlety? How can it mean anything to me if I really don't feel anything at all?"
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 6:15 pm
by Artsay
I think Stay the Hand is super bouldery. The first half at least.
All these routes kick ass:
King Me
Super Dario
Sick Puppies
Bandolier (all the 11's at Torrent, really)
Government Cheese
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 6:23 pm
by rhunt
Sick Puppies, yeah I forgot about that super cool route, did it this past spring, unlike all the rest of the routes at sky bridge.