I was paging through the guidebook and looking at all the stuff I can't climb and I noticed there's a picture with a climber on Ro Shampo just about in the same location and he's not using a heel hook either.
I've wallowed up it on a toprope with falls but I've never lead it. Will I really crater if I fall clipping the 4th anchor?
ZSpider
Mike Wheatley on Ro Shampo
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marathonmedic
- Posts: 1557
- Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am
I watched a friend on it this summer who was at, but not clipping the fourth, when he fell. He hadn't pulled slack and I don't think the belayer had much slack in the rope when the climber peeled. He ended up about 5 feel off the rock. The belayer didn't get pulled up more than about 5-6 feet. Ugly, but everyone walked away from it okay. It's not a badly bolted climb by any stretch of the definition, it's just the way the climb goes. Anyone else seen falls from this spot get ugly?Zspider wrote:I've wallowed up it on a toprope with falls but I've never lead it. Will I really crater if I fall clipping the 4th anchor?
Well, it's good beta to know. Generally I consider myself relatively safe from a ground fall after I clip the third. I'll just have to be careful on Ro Shampo. I'll just go bolt to bolt (if I can pull the crux at all) and get it wired before I climb it pumped.
And as far as ugly falls on Ro Shampo, rumor is that somebody hit the ground on it recently.
ZSpider
And as far as ugly falls on Ro Shampo, rumor is that somebody hit the ground on it recently.
ZSpider
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marathonmedic
- Posts: 1557
- Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am
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marathonmedic
- Posts: 1557
- Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am
Yeah, funny how medical school can make you have strange hours. Also note how the number of times I post actually goes up when I have a lot of tests. And they say my priorities are messed up.
As for tramming, it's when you're lowering down off of a route, usually an overhanging one, and you clip a biner/draw to your harness and the rope. As you lower the biner keeps you close to rope/wall so don't swing out and you can clean your draws. There are two dangers that conspired to make this person deck (as I understand it from 5th- or 6th-hand information). One, as you get down to the next clipped draw below you the tramming biner will actually end up below the draw and you have a bit of rope going back up to the draw. (The effect looks kind of like a Z on the rope that runs through the draws.) You normally will have to pull yourself up this little bit if it's a really overhanging route. The other danger is that when you get to the bottom draw your rope is running at an angle to gravity. If you unclip the rope from the lowest draw and you're tramming biner is still attached to your belayer's end of the rope, your weight will swing out and drag them across the dirt (or off the ledge they're on). That is actually the safer way to go on some routes. If you unclip the tramming biner from the belayer's end of the rope you will swing out into the trees and since your end of the rope is running at an angle to the anchors, gravity will pull you until you're either below the anchors or you hit dirt.
As I understand it, the person who decked had that extra rope under the clipped draw and then untrammed which suddenly put too much slack in the system and he bopped. Normally it's not much of an issue unless you're over jagged f*ing rocks.
As for tramming, it's when you're lowering down off of a route, usually an overhanging one, and you clip a biner/draw to your harness and the rope. As you lower the biner keeps you close to rope/wall so don't swing out and you can clean your draws. There are two dangers that conspired to make this person deck (as I understand it from 5th- or 6th-hand information). One, as you get down to the next clipped draw below you the tramming biner will actually end up below the draw and you have a bit of rope going back up to the draw. (The effect looks kind of like a Z on the rope that runs through the draws.) You normally will have to pull yourself up this little bit if it's a really overhanging route. The other danger is that when you get to the bottom draw your rope is running at an angle to gravity. If you unclip the rope from the lowest draw and you're tramming biner is still attached to your belayer's end of the rope, your weight will swing out and drag them across the dirt (or off the ledge they're on). That is actually the safer way to go on some routes. If you unclip the tramming biner from the belayer's end of the rope you will swing out into the trees and since your end of the rope is running at an angle to the anchors, gravity will pull you until you're either below the anchors or you hit dirt.
As I understand it, the person who decked had that extra rope under the clipped draw and then untrammed which suddenly put too much slack in the system and he bopped. Normally it's not much of an issue unless you're over jagged f*ing rocks.
Ticking is gym climbing outdoors.