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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 12:28 pm
by Artsay
weber - don't worry one moment of your time over comments like this one. The fact is that Muir is a magical land given birth by you and the many developers. Each time I go back I fall more and more in love with the place. If someone doesn't like it then so be it. I agree that it's not nice to hear negative input on something so wonderful but that's nothing new to any facet of life. There will always be people who express opposition.

If this this thread really bothers you, however, I won't hesitate to delete it. Just PM me and let me know.

Michelle

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 1:50 pm
by ynot
Magical land, I like that. I am suprised you didnt already delete it,Artsay.Or at least alter it so it doesnt piss off everyone.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 2:30 pm
by Artsay
I guess I don't see anything wrong with people expressing their opinion. I mean, there are places I don't like to climb (Rifle, Co, for example) but other people love it. Ben Cassel once said he didn't like HP40 and I gave him hell. Now I realize that he's entitled to his opinion and I was wrong for being so critical.

I do respect Rick and Liz for all their doing for us, though, so my main concern is how it affects them. If it hurts them then I'll delete the whole thread. I don't see anything I can edit, though. Folks have been complaining about the RRG being a chossy place to climb for years. I don't see this as anything new.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 3:28 pm
by weber
Artsay--

Nah. Let the person rant. I'm an old guy still trying to get used to cyber communication where writers hide behind pseudonyms to safely slander others.

Liz and I have received and welcome objective, well thought out comments and suggestions -- especially those pertaining to safety.

The one point that does concern me is Shredder's claim that choss is being "horribly bolted." To someone who has not climbed in Muir, this statement says the climbs here are unsafe.

Well, of course, we all know that rock climbing is inherently unsafe... anywhere. But, to clarify things a bit, be assured that bolting in Muir has been, and is continuing to be, done as safely as reasonably possible. Our bolting guidelines are equal to, and in most cases exceed those of the RRGCC and the American Safe Climbing Association. R-rated routes are not permitted in the valley. Bolt spacing is sane. And, if a trad line has a particularly dangerous blank section, a hanger is afixed.

As for choss... Skilled route setters with years of experience in the Red on Corbin Sandstone stay clear of soft rock. Even so, we should continually remind ourselves that even with the finest hardware, this beautiful sandstone we all know and love can and does fail.

Shredder whines that five holds broke off. The key word here may be "holds." Those pretty little pink "holds" in the climbing gym rarely break. We can become spoiled. For those of you who are coming from the gym to the outdoors, bring an extra pair of undies and welcome to the world of real rock! Especially NEW routes. The senior route setters tell stories of rock raining down from new routes all over the Red for the first few hundred climbs, until they cleaned up to the condition we find them in today. And with freezing and thawing, this stuff is still popping off.

Inexperience and recklessness are responsible for more climbing accidents than the quality of the rock. Want to really be scared poopless? Watch some of the gym newbies "belay" (!) in the Red.

Again, any thoughtful suggestions are always welcomed. If you see anything in Muir that could be improved in terms of safety, please email or call the numbers posted on www.muirvalley.com

Rick Weber

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 3:36 pm
by ynot
So trolls are the real choss of the internet.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 4:00 pm
by meetVA
Dear Mr. Weber,
I have not yet had the opportunity to experience Muir yet but I've heard nothing but good things about it from people en vivo.
Thank you for your thoughtful comments on i. posting with online communities and ii. in regards to what it means to climb outside.
I think your rank says a lot "a friend to all climbers" and this thread shows that rationality can come from odd/irrational places.
It was great getting on some routes out in the So. Region and seeing what work is really involved in making an area as climber friendly as we have seen. Nope, the vegitation really does grow all the way up to the rock...not 3-4 feet away so that we have some place clear to stand. That is hard work...so,
Thanks again and I hope to see you at the GATHERING.
Va

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 4:40 pm
by GWG
I had the opportunity to climb at Muir Valley for the first time this weekend and found it to be everything most people have said it was.

Sure, a couple of holds broke while I was climbing and I attributed that to 2 things: the fact that we were climbing some very new routes and that I'm over weight and need to lose a few.

What I did find are routes that will definitely be considered RRG classics. They were well protected on lead, varied in style, and a lot of fun to climb. We, as a climbing community, are fortunate to have the number of quality route setters/developers that have given of their time and resources. Just take a moment and think of the number of routes established over the past several months. I, for one, am very thankful.

So Shedder doesn't like the climbing in the valley. Not everyone enjoys a great steak. I guess each is entitled to their own opinion.

I won't stand up and say "I" for it is my opinion that there are some great routes across several of the grades.

Thanks to Rick and Liz and all those who have spent their time developing a great climbing venue.

GWG

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:23 pm
by andy_lemon
Yeh, you make a good point. I don't really like steak either.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:26 pm
by squeezindlemmon
Dear Shredder,

Please stop chipping holds at Muir and return the five large holds that you broke off intentionally (out of frustration) just bec you couldn't stick to them. Also, please stop whining on this board just bec you cannot send the routes at the Sanctuary. You want to "benefit the climbing community"? Then please stop climbing at Muir. I'd rather not see your whiny butt in Muir at all, otherwise, you will have to deal with this 59" DrillBitch.

Much love,
Squeeze

P.S. If all you really need is a hug, I'm sure I can arrange for one of the members of Team Muir to give you one.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:27 pm
by squeezindlemmon
GWG wrote:Not everyone enjoys a great steak.
I enjoy my steak when it's well done and dripping with A-1. That to me is a great steak. Andy's right, good point GWG.