RRC Archives

Stretch!

Realize that it will take time for you to get acquainted with gym-style climbing. I get disoriented each time I go to a new gym because the style of setting routes varies.

When bouldering, place a pad over the split where other pads come together. Many people have fallen, landed in the split and went home with a broken/badly sprained ankle.

Don't follow Ho's advice, it will zap your energy.

Ho's advice is great....it helps with getting frustration out before hand so you can concentrate on climbing.

yeah I kinda like Ho's advice, too.

Thanks, everyone. I went last night and it seems the only mistake I made was getting on stuff that was hard (for me). I actually had fun and got a good work out. My goal is to work my weaknesseses and increase my endurance on overhangs. I know I'll get used to the tape deal... but I won't be doing any of that silly bouldering crap.

If you are training for routes hopefully you have access to some type of systems wall or a slightly overhanging wall that you can hang out on for longish burns.

Hopefully you have some gym managers who understand the importance of traverses and circuit routes for endurance training and encourage this type of route setting. (Big hint here for RQclimber & Kato. I'm willing to set some training routes anytime you want.)

Ignore the tape the first time up and use any hold that's available. If you can make it to the top using all the holds, then start limiting yourself to a particular taped route. Don't dyno. Be aware that the more time you spend on crimpers, the closer you get to finger problems. If you want to gain strength, go for the open-handed slopers on overhanging walls. If you experience pain after a workout, take enteric (coated) aspirins and soak hurting hands in cold water. Drink beer. Pain or no pain.

ZSpider

Climb 13s and v10s

Stay away from mono and two-finger pocket holds that only fit a single pad (that's how I strained a tendon in my right hand earlier this spring, when I started training in the gym).

Zspider wrote:If you experience pain after a workout, take enteric (coated) aspirins and soak hurting hands in cold water. Drink beer. Pain or no pain.

I was looking around trying to find a thread about pain in finger joints...
Does this hold true for that?

I overdid it at the gym the last few days & my joints are swollen & aching. I took ibuprofen this morning & it didn't seem to help at all.
I'm at work so no beer...

Aleve was working for me, but alas.....I have been just living with the swelling and pain.It becomes part of you after a few years. If it's the joint and not the tendons,then Chondroitin Gloucosamine work.It takes a few days to kick in.

If you're having that much swelling and pain, you may be overdoing it. Try less closed fisted crimping and add more slopers to the routine.

Happy New Year!