RRC Archives

Yet another example of ghey assed sport climbers calling a rest "out". I can turn face up to the crack into 5.14 if I start calling holds off. Routes are what the are, and calling kneebars and rests out is just silly.

Wes

Man, you're lame.

Joe Finney wrote:stick clip the all the bolts and pull on all the draws.

but funny.

Wes wrote:Yet another example of ghey assed sport climbers calling a rest "out". I can turn face up to the crack into 5.14 if I start calling holds off. Routes are what the are, and calling kneebars and rests out is just silly.

Wes

Don't you love all the rules in climbing? What happened to "I made it up and didn't fall."?

I was working this (up to the first anchors) and, at first, I thought that I could stem the hell out of it - starting a bit above the third bolt. It seemed like a great idea, except that getting into the stem that low took a lot of energy and wasn't very restful. Plus, getting back out of it was a bunch of work.

But I'm pretty sure that for me, I have to pull the crux and make the next clip before I can get into the stem reliably. At that point, I might as well head up to the anchors, because the moves get a lot easier. I want to send it this fall, and it may turn out that the easiest thing for me is to do the whole thing on the face, and only stem while clipping the anchors.

I agree with Wes - the rock around the bolts is what it is. Calling stuff "off" that's near the bolts can rapidly become a pretty silly game.

I'm with Wes, use what ever you can reach within reason, ie not 20 off the bolt line. I would encourage anyone who redpoints the first pitch to check out the second pitch. It looks scary and hard but really it super good and not as long as it losok. Bring a water bottle and your lunch and chill-out on top of the ledge before heading up the second pitch oh and bring a 70 meter rope and leave your belayer on the ground.

Yeah, Way Up Yonder is pretty sweet. So was it you who wrote that life-saving beta on the ledge in chalk, Rhunt? "REST HERE"... I was so glad someone reminded me!

People that tell you something is off on a route should take up golf and play with their itty bitty wee wee in the bushes.

i didn't say it was off. just that she's doing an easier version. i don't give a fuck if she sends 5.9 instead of .11a.