RRC Archives

OZ wrote:Thanks for the answer Ray. I figured two draws would be enough so that's why I couldn't understand why all the others would be left behind also. Maybe the newer climbers that are bailing on all that backup will get a clue and not do it anymore. Bummer though for the ones that don't know any better.

I hope this is a joke, because that is the dumbest sh*t I have heard all day. When you bail off of a climb leave two draws on the bolt you are stuck at, clip the rope in to those, then proceed to lower off the route, leaving your gear behind as booty because you suck. Only an idiot would bail from one sh*tty biner, risking their lives for a couple of dollars...OMG...what a n00b

Man, I agree with this guy. I get draws this way all the time! Another thing I don't understand is why people leave their packs at the cliff when they go to take a dump! I come home every weekend with like 3 packs....full of gear, food, wallets, etc.! Dumbasses shouldn't leave their shit if they want to hang onto it.

Jefflehmkuhl,

Wouldn't be safer to have two different draws on two seperate hangers instead of two draws on the same one? It might not be as safe as bailing with all the draws left on, but it would save money.

SCIN,

I don't think what I'm describing is anything like taking packs while people are doing there business in the woods. They'll be back!

well...what i originally said would be posted up there for you to see, except some douchebag moderator is having fun changing my posts for me. So, think what you want.

OZ wrote:I don't think what I'm describing is anything like taking packs while people are doing there business in the woods. They'll be back!

OZ, Just as the people who left their packs while shitting in the woods are intending to come back, so ther person who leaves project draws on a route intends to return to climb that route and retrieve her draws.

Leaving project draws on a route is common practice in the Gorge, as well as in other popular climbing areas. Local ethics suggest that you leave these in place. Most climbers in the Red would veiw someone keeping these draws as a thief.

loren wrote:

OZ wrote:I don't think what I'm describing is anything like taking packs while people are doing there business in the woods. They'll be back!

OZ, Just as the people who left their packs while shitting in the woods are intending to come back, so ther person who leaves project draws on a route intends to return to climb that route and retrieve her draws.

Leaving project draws on a route is common practice in the Gorge, as well as in other popular climbing areas. Local ethics suggest that you leave these in place. Most climbers in the Red would veiw someone keeping these draws as a thief.

Agreed!!

I don’t think the two scenarios are alike at all.

Two dudes were at the cliff climbing and falling on their route. After awhile they left. As they past by, we asked if they were giving up and leaving so soon. They said, “Yeah, we had to bail.” So there. They bailed and left all those draws. My friend who has been climbing for quite a while - although mostly in the gym - said they left bail booty. We figured it was because they wanted to be safe when lowering. They never said they were coming back.

Now if somebody leaves a pack to crap in the woods, I would expect that the person would be comming back soon unless they have some sort of problems. If they put the pack down and said I’m tired of carrying this pack and now I’m leaving - then it becomes booty.

And where would one find out about the “local ethics” you talk about?

Right here.

Don't leave gear dumbasses... buy some 4lbs test fishing line and use it to rap off of.

Seriously though, quicklinks have been a cheaper alternative for me to use rather than a biner.

Overheard:

One guy:
'Those things are ugly, I've got like 6 so I dont' mind leaving one behind'
Other guy:
'Well now you only have 5'

---Two guys talking as they walked away from bailing on a sport route leaving behind an old Chouinard locking biner