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Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 7:13 pm
by Wes
People have been talking about the overuse issues for awhile. Camping and climbing. The coolest suggestion I heard was on kywilderness.com back in the day - close 715 to cars. That would create a *real* wilderness area. Other then that, keep in mind that one of the ways the FS tries to control use is by parking. Which is why it is important to not overflow the parking areas. And, the FS doesn't control Roadside, so that isn't an issue with them.
Wes
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 7:19 pm
by tomdarch
A lot of the 'overused' crags have a few things in common. If there were more crags that fit the criteria, then people would be a lot more likely to follow the "If the lot looks full, go somewhere else" idea. The critera seem to be:
1) Easy approach/access
2) Several sport routes ranging from about 5.7 to 5.10b relatively close together
This seems to cover Phantasia, Left Flank, Roadside, Torrent, Military, Oil Crack, etc.
I know that new crags have been held up by the Forest Service review process - Does anyone know if there are undeveloped crags out there that have the potential to meet the above criteria and spread out the deman for these sorts of crags?
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 7:59 pm
by Artsay
But there are always routes like Ball Scratcher.
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 8:02 pm
by air canada
I'll bet that there's something like that in the southern region. Its just got to be found and developed.
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 8:07 pm
by Artsay
Yea, I mean just the photo of it is amazing!
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 8:16 pm
by SCIN
Ball Scratcher is just one of the most beautiful lines I've ever seen.
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 8:23 pm
by rhunt
Thanks Artsay i had to look
now I can't see
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 8:31 pm
by Guest
What kind of pro does that take? I can't believe that would be bolted!
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 8:32 pm
by SCIN
Not sure. Horatio appears to be sending it with the squeeze technique though.
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 8:37 pm
by MiaRock
please excuse me while i go barf...