RRC Archives

chriss wrote: If you are trying to redpoint a climb at your limit,

Yeah, but he said it was on easy leads.

I usually just go up to the people hogging a route and ask them if they mind if I climb on their gear. They've always let me. And it's almost always on an easy route; if it was a hard route I might want my own gear out of courtesy becuase I might be falling on it.

MiaRock wrote:If i walked up to a crag and saw draws I would not just climb on them, unless I knew who they belonged to. For one thing I don't trust that other people take care of their things like I do (i'm an equipment freak) and also some folks might not like you jumping on their draws.

That being said I also think it is SUPER rude to just leave your stuff up and go somewhere else. If you are done climbing something clean the route and if you happen to come back just put the draws back up it.

excellent point mia...you are correct.

any y'all been to the motherlode or Darkside? During good weather more than half the routes at the lode are fixed with someone elses draws. Usually that is because they're working the route and don't want hang the draws everytime they get on it, or they leave draws on their warm-ups to make warming up quicker. My point is if there are draws on a climb, climb it no one will care.


Here's what pisses me off...walk up to do a climb and all the draws are on it and someone's rope is still on it. When that happens I ask around(usually don't walk the whole cliff asking) and if I don't find anyone I pull the rope and climb the route using their draws. I haven't seen much of this in the past 3 or 4 years but it use to happen all the time at the Red

If a group, or just a couple of people, go somewhere else and leaves draws up, they should be expecting that people will be climbing on them. Even more so in a busy area, like roadside. As long as you can close the biners, they are more than likely safe.
The closest I've really seen to people holding a route is when there is a definite line-up for a climb, and people are usually cool about letting you in at the end of the line.
Whether you want to wait that long is up to you.

However, if there are people around, be sure to ask what's up with the draws.

philip171 wrote:The last day we were down at road side, some foaks were hogging all the easy leads, they would leave, pull there rope, and leave there draws and be back a hour later and come back. Is it ok to climb on there draws? Or is it there route? I mean, we have hogged routes to, but usally only one, and dont mind shareing the rope and letting other top rope ours, but these guys seemed to care about no one alse abd hogged about 3 climbs.
Any how,
Any advice would be helpful, I hear at some places, if there are draws and no one there its ok to use there gear, I just dont like not knowing the history of it.
Any how thanks!

Here is a great idea. . .USE COMMUNICATION SKILLS!!!

It's obvious you saw these people commiting their dirty, yet you neglected to say anything. Instead you chose to come here and complain about it while at the same time asking for advice. Next time, confront them and get the lowdown. If they're assholes, climb the route, taking their draws off and replace with your own. Problem solved.

Whatever.

SikMonkey, My point being is that a person can be rude or nice. Thats all.Its all about how hard you are willing to push. I've never seen a problem with people getting on routes. Its because we speak to the person whos "hogging" the route.Instead of going home and getting on a message board and fretting......"OH, what shall I do!!!" What you should do is speak kindly to the person who is "hogging" the route and work something out. If the person refuses then become rude right back. It is your responsibility as a social entity to respond with positive peer pressure to cull this misbehavior. Otherwise they will perpetrate such an ast in the future. If it is not arrested then it will spread.Soon you will have everyone at a crag acting rude to each other and venting passively from message boards safely behind closed doors.SO SPEAK UP!!

Better yet, just bring a few dogs to the cliff that will fight and stir up a nice dust cloud. That can clear a crag.

Here is a great idea. . .USE COMMUNICATION SKILLS!!!

That's a good one Pianodude, but I can top it : USE COMMON SENSE!!!!


Mj

I'm going to try the "dog trick" the next time I go to Left Flank, thanks Moonbeam...

I can feel that pseudo hippy crap just oozing at the seams...can you feel the love?

you guys crack me up....