RRC Archives

rhunt wrote:how many time do I have to say this...trad SUCKS at the red...gees I sound like a broken record!

Why do you say it sucks? I've climbed in J-tree, T-wall, Shortoff, Looking Glass, Black Hills, the Red and Yosemite. They are all different. I think trad in the Red is fantastic. Some complain about the rock being too soft but I haven't found that to be a problem. Sometimes chossy regions do present obstacles but that is part of what makes it interesting. There is lots of variety in terms of crack width, steepness and friction and there are a lot of routes. The fact that there is sport mixed in is cool also. It's true that the red is missing the longer routes but what we have is still challenging, interesting, and fun -- the things I look for in a climb.

I have been all but 4 of the above. So far Lust at first sight is my favorite.
They are all great routes. The Beenling is a sandbag. Rocket man is going to feel stiff for the grade. I cant wait to try Jungle Beat. I still havent found Blister in the Sun. Dont miss the second pitch of Africa. Trad in the Red gets really good at 5.9 and above.plenty to choose from.

Blue Biner is pretty cool. For face climbing try Central Scrutinizer. Its technically mixed but you won't notice.

Broken Chicken Wing

Can't say what's best because I've done so few of the 5.9s, but Jungle Beat is really cool. I still remember it vividly though I haven't been on the route since '79!

where lizards dare, great exposure and a stunning line.

Dannys right Jungle Beat for sure
"Adventure climbing at it's best"

I thought of a good one today. I followed it so I got to enjoy the moves. It has everything. No Return 2 pitches, nice topout,sustained,cool moves,fists to tips.

true dat

Headstone Surfer