RRC Archives

It's really bad for soil erosion.

Other than that, as long as they let people outside their group climb, I'm ok with it.

unless you have tickets, you can't climb near me or on MY routes.

i've always wished that i could choose who can and can't climb. this board probably wouldn't exist, but hey...you gotta make sacrifices. i would definitely eliminate michigan and ohio, although, there are people in ohio that are somewhat tolerable. still, it would be better to just take out a large group of dipshits with one stroke. i guess i would accept appeals, but would probably use forest service work ethics and look at them a few years after i said i would. i'd also ban some bolters, but not their bolting. i don't wanna do that work. just think of all the problems YOU could solve by not climbing!? do it for the sake of climbing and quit!

and ho has spoken..I've always said if I truly cared about the enviro at the crag, I'd quit climbing...as it is, my selfish pursuit takes precedence over any "illusion" of sanctity I may have for mother earth...

Back when we were guiding we had a group up at Left Flank. Wel we did Mr. Bungle first, when we were done another group came up and we offered to leave our gear on the route since the seemed to be on the less experienced side plus we wanted our group to have another opportunity to climb it if they wanted to. So we went off to another route when we came back that group took the draws but left the rope. So much for being nice and sharing! Now we only share with those we know and pull our gear if we don't. We can always climb it again.

I think taking over a crag for bragging rights sucks. But Pigsteak did have a good point..'there are no rules"..

Pigsteak mentioned learning to climb harder routes...that was the first motivation to climb harder. I would hike in all excited to get on some bolted 5.9 or 10a and when I would arrive at the route there would be a large group all waiting, I'd look around and all the 5.11's and 5.12's were empty, so I worked hard and leaned to climb harder.

james neukam wrote:Yeah. It bothers me when a group takes over a climb you wanted to do. I was in West Virgina at the bridge and had to race a guide to the route called Zag. The guide won and had the route tied up all day...I did not get to do the route on that trip... bummed out does not explian the way I felt.

I love that story - I can still imagine you - "Chariots of Fire" playing in the background...slo-mo movie running - you see the other guide, grab your gear and you both take off on the approach trail....hahaha kills me everytime --- still very much a bummer you didnt get to do the route.

so would you feel bad for the other guide if james had gotten there first????

what if the guide couldn't earn a living that day because you took his route, he's a pro we are just amateurs

naw - James is my friend...I don't know the guide - I could of course say that I would feel bad for whoever got denied their time on a route they very much wanted to climb.....Besides...I know James and I know that he would have allowed for the guide to have time on the route too...seeing as James was just with his climbing partner and not guiding a whole group....so of course I would be routing for James.

rhunt wrote:what if the guide couldn't earn a living that day because you took his route, he's a pro we are just amateurs

if a guide can only find one route to put his group on than he doesn't sound like much of a pro...