"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
belaying is over rated.. I prefer a really "loose" belay on my hard sends, and someone who is a bit sketchy..that way, I hold on longer, and usually send the project...nothing like death fall potential to harden your resolve.