Belaying

Post by **charlie** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:05 pm

MiaRock wrote:or get you foot caught in heel hooks 8)

Yeah, I'm just an accident waiting to happen I guess.

Post by **Scaife** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:18 pm

I find that people who recently witness climbing incidents, make for very attentive belayers.

It kind of makes you wonder if all of the really good belayers have a story about why they take it so seriously.

Post by **Thrax** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:27 pm

Just being attentive is not enough. The worst short ropers are very attentive. How else would they know when to take in and sit down, thus slamming the leader into the wall.

Post by **MiaRock** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:32 pm

Thrax wrote:Just being attentive is not enough. The worst short ropers are very attentive. How else would they know when to take in and sit down, thus slamming the leader into the wall.

i think you are talking about people who are insecure about belaying, a good belayer is confident in their skills and attentive to their climber.

Post by **Gretchen** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:42 pm

I trust Bryan, Tony Frey and my girl Lynn. They are who I have become comfortable with and communicate well with. They know what I like and respect that. I am very attentive when I belay for someone, so I expect the same in return.

Post by **Thrax** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:56 pm

Your trust is well founded. They both are good climbers and good belayers and even more important, good people.

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 8:00 pm

Chris Synder taught me some of the fine points of the Gri-Gri early on and I prefer its use, unfortunately most people I climb with are grossly incompetent belayers. I personally view belaying as a skill not unlike clipping or slinging pro to maintain a straighter line, etc, something to continuously evolve and develop.

Post by **Wes** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 8:55 pm

I trust most people to not drop me, fewer people to give a good, soft, catch. But, when you are going for a hard send, there is nothing like having an "A team" member on the other end. Because they will know where the crux is, know where you clip from, and know what to say to help you clip the chains when you can barely hold the rope.

Also, I think there is a lot to be said for the team suck approch, which is all about the team. If someone has a project, the other people will do things like hang the draws, brush the holds, give good beta, etc to help out. That is super cool knowing you have people behind you that will try their best to see you send.

Wes

Post by **Gretchen** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 8:58 pm

Hey Crankmas, Ask Snyder what he taught Bryan Berlier about an attentive belayer!

I think it was about a 50 foot whipper!

Post by **One-Fall** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 9:44 pm

I'm with Wes. Any member of Team Suck has my respect. Those guys put the friendship back in climbing.

I definately trust Shannon and Air Canada with my life. Both of them have kept me off the ground when I definately should have decked. Most everyone I climb with I trust for a belay. P2U and Artsay, both of whom I have just started to climb with, give seemless belays.

In order of importance, I expect my belayer to:
1) Keep me off the ground
2) Give a soft catch
3) Try not to short rope
4) Lie for me if I say I sent something with them on belay (even if they weren't there that day)