Unrepeated trad

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Johnny
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 9:28 pm

Post by Johnny »

There are a handful of R and X routes that haven't seen a 2nd ascent. I'd be that Larry Day's Meteor Maker at Half Moon is one of them. Perhaps Tower of Power too. (No, TR's don't count).
Johnny
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 9:28 pm

Post by Johnny »

Also Bleak Future and Which Way Is Up.
Wes
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Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Pink feat? How many times has that been done? And invisable barrier?

Dark city is more like 5.11-, super fun, and not as chossy as it looks.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
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SCIN
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

Yea, Pink Feat for sure.
Cruisemaster as well.

Hell, any trad route over 5.11b at the Red is rarely repeated.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
aaron

Post by aaron »

is the unrepeated trad, for the most part, of good quality?
i think most people don't see the red as a destination trad area.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Yea, the trad at the Red is high quality. Very high quality from my experience.
People don't like to hike to a cliff just to do a few routes though hence the popularity of sport. If the good trad routes were more congested (like T-Wall) then the Red would be a more popular trad destination.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Jesus, you should be smacked for saying that Aaron. If you weren't a trad climber I would understand but my god, have you not been on:

Jack the Ripper
Mr. Get it on Jones
Welcome to Ol' Kentuck
Burden of Dreams
The Quest
The Battlement
Hollywood Boulevard
Windy Corner
Hidden Dragon
Negative Energy
Kool-Aid
Pink Feat
Country Lovin'
Fibrulator

The list goes on and on....
Those routes are freakin' HIGH quality. Roofs, powerful moves, fingers, stems from hell! The Red has some of the best hard trad around man.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
Wes
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Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Thunder chicken
B3
Inhibator
Return of Geoff Beene
Whats left of the Beenling
Etc..

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
aaron

Post by aaron »

im sorry owe owner of the big cams!!!! :D

no, haven't broken into those climbs yet, but soon! i hope.
this spring is the season for some hard trad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

gotta get ready for the valley!
Spray Lord
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 3:15 am

Post by Spray Lord »

Most of those DON'T require big cams aaron (B3, Jack the Ripper, Windy Corner, Return of Geoff Beene, Mr. Get it on Jones, Welcome to Ol' Kentuck, Fibrulator Direct, Synchornicity, not Ice, etc.), just big balls.
In case you misunderstood, I wasn't soloing in reality. I was just bouldering the beginning of that route. I see no glory in soloing... unless it gets you on the cover of Rock & Ice.
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