RRC Archives

Ha, no. Just giving advice to the gumbies...

I haven't been on a rope since Nov. And I almost miss it. Actually, I am planning a "trad cycle" for this spring.

Wes

I disagree. Yes, bouldering and sport climbing will add a few tricks to your bag but it will not increase some of the strengths that you need to climb hard trad. Cases in point are Welcome to Ole Kentuck & Here Comes Batman. It took a hardcore trad climber from out-of-state to free NBC. Only two people have repeated it. HCB has yet to be repeated and has denied the few who have tried. We have a couple of 5.14 and plenty of 5.13 sport routes in RRG but only one 5.13 and a handful of 5.12 trad routes plus an unrepeated 5.11 trad. What gives? I would submit that climbing hard trad sometimes requires specific upper body strengths that bouldering and sport climbing do not develop.

so does trad only develop the muscles you're talking about??

I am mainly talking about the push muscles needed for climbing hard OW. Climbing hard OW would obviously develop such strengths as would certain gymnastic excersises such as dips and handstand push-ups. Abs also play an important role in climbing hard trad as demonstrated by the moves req'd on Hidden Dragon.

true dat. watching andrew gearing on wdc made me wanna start doing sit ups!

maybe i should start.

Actually, by transitivity, not because they are commutative.

Hey captain static, what is the unrepeated 5.11 trad in the rrg?

i have wondered what role getting on routes over one's ability would do, in moderation, seeing what needs to be improved? wihout the negative vibe of being shut down, specifically I'm thinking of a 10A leader working the 11 wall at Torrent, the moves aren't stopper and it seems the experience would only be positive, any other thoughts on this

I don't think you can improve unless you get on routes above your limit. That's been my experience, anyway.

Sandy, you left yourself wide open to be made fun of, anybody else want the honors. I'm too nice to pick on an old lady.