RRC Archives

holy shit! Did that giant flake in the top of the first pic move when you pulled on it? I wouldn't layback that thing.

If you look closely at it,it appears to be perched precariously on choss. I have pulled on it and seen someone else layback on it .It didn't move a bit. it's way more stable than the giant block on the second pitch of Dicey at best.That thing scared the crap out of me. I guess someday they will both kill an unfortunate belayor.

Overhung, I believe those anchors are first you come to on rockwars, 15 ft up are the second set.

Those are the second set of anchors on Rock Wars. The rock starts getting kinda crappy after that.

Wes

The big flake is also part of Hot September, and people crank on it all the time! Anyone who has led Souder's crack speak up.

Artsay, that is a weird bug in the spray database. I imagine the only way to correct that might be for the sprayer to delete that route from his spray and resubmit it. I dunno, though.

Can you reach Rockwars when you are climbing Souder's Crack? I'd want to use twin ropes on that puppy and protect both cracks so that when that rock finally peels off I'd get slammed into the corner instead of crushed with the falling debris. By the time I'm good enough to lead it, though, it may no longer be there.

I can't remember exactly where but I did have something very big shift on me when I was on that route. I just made sure the rope and belayer were well out of the way. It might be a good idea to belay from top.

So has anyone lead this thing or is this a first ascent?

It has been lead before. This isn't a breakthrough in modern day crack climbing. It's just shit rock so most people prefer to toprope it. However, did you hear about the 5.14d roof crack that went up in Italy? God damn.

http://www.climbing.com/current/italianreality/

spuzo, not all climbers in the Red read/post here. In fact, only a small minority do. So it's hard to say, though I'd be inclined to believe SCIN and assume that it's been done before.