Steepest route in the Red?

Post by **SCIN** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 3:48 am

Good point Wes. I guess that eliminates most of them besides Better Red Than Dead and Burden of Dreams.

Post by **SCIN** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 3:56 am

Actually not even Better Red Than Dead because there's a lot of vertical climbing to get up to it. So what if a route is 30 degrees overhanging and 100 feet long where another route is 80 degrees overhanging but only 20 feet long? On the 100 foot route the climber will be farther from the belayer when they lower than on the 20 foot route. Is that to say the 100 foot route is steeper?

Post by **Wes** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 4:04 am

Tricky, eh? Just depends on how you define steep. I think long routes at an pretty steep angle climb steeper the shorter routes that are really steep.

WDC would be the steepest, since it is never less then Horz.

Wes

Post by **SCIN** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 4:08 am

It's very tricky. Michelle and I have been discussing it for about an hour now. How gay.

Well, steep is defined as the following:
Having a sharp inclination; precipitous.

So, since perpendicular means no slope, I guess roof aren't steep. They're just roofs. This means if you took all the routes at The Lode and turned them horizontal they would no longer be steep. Then maybe Pigsteak could climb them!

Post by **One-Fall** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 3:36 pm

Wes,

WDC? What and where is it? How long is it "never less than horz"?

SCIN,

Which route are you climbing above in the red shirt and tan pants? Looks absolutely amazing.

Post by **Wes** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 3:39 pm

WDC = When doves cry. It is a roof crack boulder problem.

Wes

Post by **gulliver** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 5:27 pm

When that picture first loaded I thought it was another action figure! but it didn't have the backpack or those 5-10 Summits.
Cool looking rock

Post by **SikMonkey** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 5:35 pm

Though it's not as steep as some of the Madness Cave routes or Bob Marley Routes, Sport for Brains at Torrent is pretty steep. Paranoia is WAY steep too. I would definitely define how steep something is by what angle it's at for the majority of the pitch. Something can be at 45 degrees for 15 feet, then go vert for the rest of the climb, but I wouldn't really call that steep (Pee Cave at Roadside?). Steepness rules my little universe.

Mj

Post by **One-Fall** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 9:47 pm

SM,

That's too funny. I was thinking that "Pee-cave" (ray calls it Chunnel) was the steepest sport route in the Red. Its pure roof for almost 20 feet, while the routes at Bob Marley are roof for only about 8 feet. But I do see your point.

Thanks, Wes. I spotted KH on it once. He completely styled it. I have got to learn how to do those roof hand jams you traddies do. Is there some manual or book that shows the main hand jamming positions and when to use them, or is it just a practice makes perfect kind of thing? In either case if you are bored one day and want to show me how to do that stuff, I'll haul the gear around.

Post by **Wes** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 11:29 pm

WDC is on the short list for sure. Will let you know when I plan on heading there.

Wes