RRC Archives

I think I am now full on obsessed with this thing. Just got on it for the first time today, and I am hooked. I like the pocket way as well. Guess I better hurry up and do it before it gets to hot.

Buster wrote:

rhunt wrote:hotkarl, I think they are the omega draws you are talking about. People at the lode are usually pretty good about leaving project draws and donated draws on routes.

It has been a long time since I have been this obsessed with a route, I think about the moves all the time. There are two ways to do the crux, out left on some powerful crimp moves or out right on some pockets, which way were you trying it? I was first on 8-ball about two years ago and was trying the out left way but now I find the pocket way to be way better.

I'll leave the draws on it if you don't mind..let me know.

check this out and see if they look like your draws..http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... pic_id=396

Rob

I am personally gratified to hear that you are trying 8-ball with the "approved" sequence. Good job!

Some of the bent gates on those draws have been worn half way through. I've personally replaced one up high and the third is still looking for a permanent replacement. One of those draws actually broke this winter from being so worn. Just so you know.

I think the third was replaced yesterday, if not, I will replace the ones that need it next time I am there.

Also, there are draws on the first 4 or so bolts of snooker and one the last couple, but none in the middle. Any idea why?

Third draw was replaced for the day, but i took it down because i didn't know when id get back to 8-ball. I think snooker is missing in the middle because the draws that were there were the sketchiest ever... not sure on that though.

Cool. I hope to get back out there this weekend, so I will re-equip 8-ball and maybe snooker. Such cool routes, I can see getting on them both as much as I can until it gets way to hot.

those routes stay in the shade all day in the summer time, It is hell for the belayer in the sun though

I fixed up Snooker yesterday. Hung three draws in the middle that were missing and replaced the top two that were sticking. I did see that someone had changed the 3rd or 4th dray on 8-ball and left the one they took off at the base of the climb. I canabilized it and put one biener on the top of Stain along with another one of mine for easier cleaning. I alse replaced two beiners on Tuna Town, one of which was sharp enough to shave with.

Those draws on 8-ball have been up for two years, but are in decent shape considering. I put up my 3 draws on snooker for the send, which will hopefully happen this Saturday... I will probably leave them when I'm done as community service.

New(er) draws on 8-ball now. I will be leaving them there for a while. Left the other ones at the base, and there might be a couple draws that could be brought back to life for another route.

Snooker has had fixed draws on it since 1997 (at least, that I know of). First, Porters where up there for years, then,I changed them out with super tape econo draws and reused his biners, and then Cioci gave me those back recently and has refixed it with his draws. That is cool that the route stays fixed with perma draws.