RRC Archives

Wicked Tribe, Not all of porters routes had inferior bolts and hangers as you suggested. I could also say that your route Fadda was added to an area which was overused. It is a fun route with good equipment but really close to motha. Is this good bolting practice. this only my opinon, others may not agree.

amen Lurkist!

And as I understand it, didn't Porter use bedframes on some routes because he didn't have the money and not because he was trying to save money?

Since we areon the subject, and I am fresh from a spray a thon route maintenance clinic last Sat. (which was great- Bill Ramsey, Tony Burlier, Allah, and Mike and participated and had very good discussion on stylitic issues and differing opinions on method and gear), I would like to say this and then I will say no more-
There is way too much rock in the Red to over bolt an area or do yet another route at crag ____. If the route your looking at isn't obviously 4 star classic, keep looking. There is just way too much rock in the Red to waste gear and time on questionable routes. Of course one man's trash is another man's treasure and everyone has their own likes and dislikes, but still- if the route doesn't pass some kind of test for necessity then keep walking around the next hollar. You will always find another wall with the classic you're after.

you shouldn't be so hard on Johnny, Lurkist. He can't help that he's a chossoholic!

Hey, and spell Berlier correctly!

the reason i put up this poll is because i have heard of someone who has been bolting yet has not been climbing very long and i doubt has been taught properly. i think bolting a line is serious business considering a life could be at risk. i will also say that anyone can make a mistake but you are less likely to do something wrong if you have plenty of experience.

But all you Berlier boys are so burly!

I don't think the years someone has been climbing means much in this case. I've been climbing for nine years and wouldn't trush anchors I put in. I've never thought of putting up anchors so I don't know what kind of hardware to use and methods work best. Yet I've *heard* JH is putting up anchors and that he was taught by Greg Houston. Greg is a great person to learn from and I trust him to teach someone well.

Part of the CAC mission is to develop standards on which to develop by. Who wants to see an upsurge of shotty routes when there is so much opportunity to do better? The Red is a world class destination and wouldn't it be great to remain that way by providing quality routes.

Amen Gretchen!