RRC Archives

Holy Crap!

Wow... maybe all the bolts on that thing should be pulled!!

TradMike wrote:I witnessed a fall on "Sand" that resulted in a bolt being pulled out of the rock. Some very good climber was running laps on the route. On his last attempt he got too pumped and took a fall. During the impact on the bolt the outer inch of rock blew out, bent the remaining nub of the bolt in the rock and then pulled completely out of the rock. The climber ended up 5ft. from the ground and slammed his girlfriend into the first bolt. Thank god she was using a grigri because it completely knocked her out.

You weren't there, liar!
Zeb, my room mate at the time, was the climber and Roxanna Brock was the belayer. Yeah, Zeb got pumped, yeah the bolt pulled when the rock around it broke, yeah he came close to the deck, yeah Roxanna was dragged along the ground, NO she was not knocked out!
Everyone that had done the route, including Porter knew that bolt was going to pull. It was bad from the moment he placed it.
Get it together dude!

Buster wrote:

TradMike wrote:I witnessed a fall on "Sand" that resulted in a bolt being pulled out of the rock. Some very good climber was running laps on the route. On his last attempt he got too pumped and took a fall. During the impact on the bolt the outer inch of rock blew out, bent the remaining nub of the bolt in the rock and then pulled completely out of the rock. The climber ended up 5ft. from the ground and slammed his girlfriend into the first bolt. Thank god she was using a grigri because it completely knocked her out.

You weren't there, liar!
Zeb, my room mate at the time, was the climber and Roxanna Brock was the belayer. Yeah, Zeb got pumped, yeah the bolt pulled when the rock around it broke, yeah he came close to the deck, yeah Roxanna was dragged along the ground, NO she was not knocked out!
Everyone that had done the route, including Porter knew that bolt was going to pull. It was bad from the moment he placed it.
Get it together dude!

I was there! The guy put the bent bolt on his necklace after the incedent. If it was Zeb then it came from his lips that he pulled his belayer into the first bolt and would have been dropped without the grigri. I am just relaying what Zeb told me in his wide eyed state after it happened. I didn't have a good view of the belayer. I only heard the ruckus and caught the end of the fall and walked over to see what happened. Just relaying what I know about the route.

TradMike wrote:I witnessed a fall ... Thank god she was using a grigri because it completely knocked her out.

I guess that you mistook walking around at the base and asking if Zeb was ok for "completely knocked out".

Sand is actually a great route IMO. Certainly better than the short version of up yonder. It will take gear right after the roof. When I did it i put 2 aliens in some eyebrows. What you all must not realize is that every old 3/8 bolt that porter put in is questionable. Hell pretty much every bolt put in at the Red is questionable. It's the nature of the beast there. Once you get past the external patina it's just hard packed sand. Don't believe me? Find an old bolt hole and stick your pinky back in it. Sand, and if it's rained in the past week or so wet sand. The rock absorbs like a sponge.

BEWARE THE CRUMBLIES!!!

Is there a way to set up a toprope on Sand?

Yep, lead it!

Wes

You're such a bitch.

Well, ask a stupid question,....

Wes