RRC Archives

Fallout is a steep and spectacular dihedral at only 10a. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... ute&id=983, And only four people have sprayed about leading it. If your off-width skills are no better than mine were you may find the off-width crux of Last Day to be an interesting challenge. Old school 10c. Plus, only two have sprayed about leading it. Make yourself a legend!

Jungle Beat
Headstone Surfer
Frenchburg Overhangs (that's me in the online pic) offwidth at bottom / then overhang / then stemming dihedral / then slab (one scary and tough slab move)
Lost in Space
Foxfire seems to have a little of everything

it's weird that i keep recommend a crag that's not really one of my go to's, but Chica Bonita has a set of techy vertical slabs that are hard to beat (as dustonian said). there's also a easy/moderate 5.8 'Cheaper Than A Movie' which is one of the best anywhere and a nice long stretch of dihedral.

i'm not saying you're not a hardman, but it's the approachable alternative to 'Jack the Ripper'

clif wrote:i'm not saying you're not a hardman, but it's the approachable alternative to 'Jack the Ripper'

The approach to jack the ripper is way easier than chica bonita

Thanks a ton for all the replies everybody, really appreciate all the veteran recommendations (including JR !! Definitely gonna be checking all these out.

Climbed Inhibitor, B3, Next Day Air, and Headstone surfer, all mind-blowing incredible routes. Anyone know the story on how the FA belayer on Headstone surfer avoided that thing?

Definitely want to get on Kaiju (Dustonian: Dyl sent me that pic awhile back, gorgeous), everything at Muscle Beach, Indian Creek, and Chica Bonita slab

LK Day: Fallout and Last Day sound rad! Definitely dig old route grades, more surprise adventures

Focused on the Quest, Basecamp, Hidey Ho, Marmalade at Middle Small Wall and Pistol Gripped (North40), Earth-Bound Misfit(Shire), and possibly Seam project (Courtesy Wall, anyone been on this?) this weekend. Psyched on the Quest, will probably be wet, gonna do it anyway and see how it goes, I enjoy dirt/slime/learning the hard way.

Thanks again!

Really interested in a report on Basecamp! Walked away completely baffled last fall

wide pride

'Yuk' at long wall

Trip Report Update:

The Quest: WOW. Stellar route. Truly incredible aesthetic climbing. The moves getting past the first roof after the first sandy ledge was awesome. And the second pitch (belayed from ledge then went for the summit) is easily my favorite pitch in the gorge because of the exposure traversing the roof while underclinging the finger crack then pulling the lip, just incredible! Made it clean to the roof then pulled the lip into the offwidth and began to become showered with water and did the best I could sliding my way up the slime and lichen. Ended up having to bail, just couldn't move up the last offwidth at all after making it up the first 2-3 ft after the lip. Super psyched on that thing, was awesome just "going for it" but will definitely look for a good dry weather opportunity to get that final off-width pitch.

Cool, Jt. When Pearsall and I did the first ascent we also found the final offwidth to be green and slimy, though not really what I'd call wet. Anyway, it had lots of slick green grown on it and I just couldn't get established above the roof without pulling up on a big hex that I was able to place overhead. Though we got to the top that day, I was living in Colorado at the time and never went back to the gorge to bag the FFA. No big deal, but I've regretted that decision to this day. I think it was five years later that Souders and company freed the last section.