Top-Managed Belay Methods

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?

Top-Managed Belay Method

Tube (similar to BD ATC)
4
10%
Plate (similar to Sticht Plate)
1
3%
Passive Autolocking (similar to Petzl Reverso, ATC Guide)
18
46%
Active Autolocking (similar to GriGri)
11
28%
Munter hitch
3
8%
Other (specify)
2
5%
 
Total votes: 39

User avatar
clif
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:24 pm

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by clif »

i guess i'm confused about your question, the 'belaying from above' qualifier seemed to indicate some logistical consideration, but the survey just list 'tools'.

maybe this is more a marketing question?
training is for people who care, i have a job.
User avatar
krampus
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by krampus »

I use what i have with me
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
kdelap
Posts: 152
Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 4:33 pm

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by kdelap »

I think tools is the key word here. No one would ask what do you like better; hammer, wrench, or sqrewdriver? We use belay tools differently for different situations. Sure some tools can do more than on think and we tend to carry these more, but in general "it always depends"!
http://www.foxmountainguides.com
User avatar
heath
Posts: 106
Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:24 am

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by heath »

Hip belay.
"You're a long way from home now, Buddy" - Ted kindly pointing out a ran out mess.
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by captain static »

Russian belay.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
WDW4
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 3:13 am

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by WDW4 »

Thanks for all the input. I usually just build a solid three point anchor off my nose, nipple, and earlobe - a variant of this:
body-pierce-belay.jpg
Actually, I prefer the munter hitch.
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by TradMike »

Doesn't the Munter Hitch twist the heck out of your rope?
kdelap
Posts: 152
Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 4:33 pm

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by kdelap »

If you manage the munter properly you can minimize if not totally eliminate twists.
http://www.foxmountainguides.com
WDW4
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 3:13 am

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by WDW4 »

I have heard of a way to eliminate twisting of the rope with the munter - the "monster" or "double" munter. It incorporates another turn, resulting in more friction and supposedly eliminating rope twist. I haven't tried it yet so I can't say, but I can say that after using the munter many times, I haven't noticed noticed twisting. I'm sure it does twist some, but it hasn't made it hard to manage the system. That is with my rope, on my climbs -you may have a different experience and you won't know until you try.
kdelap
Posts: 152
Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 4:33 pm

Re: Top-Managed Belay Methods

Post by kdelap »

You can't use the super munter to belay because there is to much friction and it doesn't flip. You are correct that because of the extra turn it eliminates twists. The super munter is mainly use for lowering heavy loads.
http://www.foxmountainguides.com
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