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Re: Debunked
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:36 pm
by climb2core
I climbed the new 5.10 twice at Solar Collector, and did Ethics Police. I have never been so sketched.. clipping the 3rd bolt in the hueco with terrible paste for hands and smearing on wet slopey rock. Then had stick clip the 4th bolt... the real crux was impossible for anything but a slug. The last 3 bolts were wet but positive enough to be fun. That was after hiking all of Muir, and a good part of Sore Heel. I was hardcore Mr. Jackson
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)
Re: Debunked
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:39 pm
by dustonian
FYI Sore Heel is pretty much always a bad choice on spoogey condensed days....
Did you check Solarium? Still the driest crag in the Red I've seen. The above-the-trees effect is huge.
Re: Debunked
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:48 pm
by climb2core
Yes, started the day at Washboard wall, bailed off the 10d there. Then went to Solarium. The entire wall was soaked and dripping.
Re: Debunked
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 5:43 pm
by rjackson
climb2core wrote:I was hardcore Mr. Jackson
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)
Nah... Something tells me you weren't plugging gear whilst whistling a happy tune, sounds like you were just out for a hike. And while Kipp recently reminded me that time outside does not constitute climbing, I'll embellish that with stick clips and bolts does not constitute hard core...
![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
Re: Debunked
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:01 pm
by climb2core
rjackson wrote:climb2core wrote:I was hardcore Mr. Jackson
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)
Nah... Something tells me you weren't plugging gear whilst whistling a happy tune, sounds like you were just out for a hike. And while Kipp recently reminded me that time outside does not constitute climbing, I'll embellish that with stick clips and bolts does not constitute hard core...
![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
Spoken like a true trad daddy.
Re: Debunked
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:02 pm
by stix
south side of the sky is one of the, if not the, driest line in the red in terms of protection from precip. camp store crag comes to mind too. but once the dew point is too close or the same as the actual temp there's not much you can do except wait for some sun and a breeze to dry things out.
Re: Debunked
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:15 pm
by THB
you've gotta learn when to hold 'em and when to fold 'em... climbing in weather like this, especially on the sometimes soft corbin sandstone that we have here in the rrg, is a good way to rip holds off of routes... something else to consider, you know... is it worth it to climb a day or 2 in this miserable weather and risk ruining a route for everyone that might want to try it in the future? might as well as go climb in the gym or maybe this is a good time to pick up kayaking if you don't wanna be a gym rat? i prefer the gym rat route...