RRC Archives

good ole John Long. i hear it everytime i make an anchor, about the first line of his 'How To" on anchors.

"First, get ONE bomber piece"

LOL. The dynamic properties of a 4" nylon sling. You guys slay me.

Use either 5.5mm Tech-cord (5k test N. E. Ropes), tied off with a double or triple fisherman's knot, or 9/16'' "super tape", also tied off with a double fisherman's knot. Tighten under body weight, and check the knots when you rack up. 1'' tubular webbing is sub-optimal because the increased amount of material results in a constriction in the eye of the piece that compromises its strength. However, I and many others used the 1'' system back in the day. Regular 6 mm Perlon is too weak.

Also see: http://www.mountaineeringlife.com/wp-co ... ngths1.pdf

PS: I don't think there is a safety issue with 1'' tubular, it can just be a pain to clip and manage on the sharp end. The water knots are large and they can make your rack bulky.

Why not 7 mm stainless oval screw links: http://www.columbussupply.com/products/?productid=1468
and
regular 12" runners : http://www.trango.com/slings_webbing/Ul ... nd_Runners
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The links have a min breakage load of 24.5 kN. BD C4 are rated to 8-14 kN
I guess one problem is weight.
BD C4 #2 = 5.5 oz
7 mm stainless oval screw link = 2.2 oz
sling = 0.5 oz
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total = 8.2 oz. this Cam 're-sling' is a 50% increase in weight. Compare that to the nominal increase in weight for a regular re-sling job: ~10% increase in weight.
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Perhaps it depends on how many you have to re-sling and what your time frame is.
* The weight of sprayed-on loctite not included.
Anybody have a problem with any of this; does it sound sketchy?

I just used both BD and Mtn Tools and happy with both. The reinforced open loop from mtn tools (that is not shown but needed on wires) is a bit more bulky / less steamlined in that location than BD.