This was the first out door lead climb I did. After traversing over on the ledge and starting up the next section, at either the first or second bolt, it spun freely and the nut was just about fully backed off.
Talking about playing with my head
I tightened it finger tight and then continued on up to the anchors. It is such a neat route. Unfortunately, everytime I've climbed it since then, my mind always goes back to that first climb.
Vic, the second set of anchors I,ve seen are about 10' away at about 10 o'clock from the ones you see from the ground. Lowering from them puts you on top of the block 1/2 way up. Corce I may be misstaken since I,ve only climbed it 17 times!
Well I climbed it 97 times, barefoot and naked, built my own anchors out of sticks and twigs and shit, didn't even clip into it and then downclimbed (in the snow of course!). So, if anyone really wants to know key beta on this route, then of course they should ask me.
As for you two (BB and Vic), I think that you should fight it out... to the death, preferably beating each other with #10 stoppers, but any old sized stopper will do.
In case you misunderstood, I wasn't soloing in reality. I was just bouldering the beginning of that route. I see no glory in soloing... unless it gets you on the cover of Rock & Ice.
By the way, the third hanger and nut are missing. It's a bit dicey of a lead. Try putting a wired nut on the threaded rod sticking out for pro. Needs to be replaced, but its a fat glue-in or something and I don't know what size it needs. I'd certainly rate it R for now.
I said that 2 years ago Johnny. it's metric or something bigger than 1/2 inch. Someone told me it had been fixed.Anyone been on it recently that knows if its fixed?
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
We were there a few weeks ago. Didn't get on W. Life but did stop to see if there was a hanger, 'cause I had just told someone on the backside of the crag that it was missing.
It was there 3 or 4 weekends ago.
Talking about playing with my head 
