Sport trad?

[pigsteak]

I thought "back in the day" guys who climb as far as they could, and if they fell they would lower and leave the gear in place. the next climber would step up and toprope to that high point and continue on as he could until he fell.....is this correct as far as what was considered good style? is that what you guys would do when leading a trad line.

dustin, when andrew was doing these hard sends recently, did he leave any gear in place for the fa burn or pull it all? for all I know he onsighted every stinkin time....lol

and ynp, dont hate...trying to up my trad game and want to learn....

[pigsteak]

good article on those guys...if i read it correctly they fully considered. climbing it on pre placed gear as an fa and went on their business only revisiting after comments and as time allowed at the end of the trip. anyone on here willing to take the fa away from them if they had not went back?

[toad857]

Pre-placed trad gear can be dangerous, as it wiggles around sometimes during a climb. They'd better know what they're doing.

[camhead]

good article on those guys...if i read it correctly they fully considered. climbing it on pre placed gear as an fa and went on their business only revisiting after comments and as time allowed at the end of the trip. anyone on here willing to take the fa away from them if they had not went back?

Hey Kipp, if you really want to construct a good troll to get all the choss-gulliers here pissed off at contradictions and hypocrisies in their "ethics," you'd do way better at looking at the history of yo-yo FFAs in the Gunks, Beth Rodden's first few hard crack ascents in the 2000s, the "FA" of Phoenix Crack by Jardine, Steve Haston's flash of Greenspit, or PeeWee's ascent of "Le Zebra."

Any of these examples would better serve the case that you are so terribly trying to make. Century Crack is a non-issue, and for you to try to make it one only shows your lack of depth in both trolling and climbing history.

[camhead]

Trad has its history derived from multi pitch where you would be pulling gear as you go and thus not feel so contrived if you repeated the line by pulling and immediately replacing it at baficaly the same points. Seems to me the evolution should discern between single pitch sport trad and "classic" multi pitch trad.

Actually, the stylistic rules of "by fair means" ground up free ascents originated in single-pitch areas like J-tree or the Peak District, where a free lead was seen as a way to improve on a toprope. Only later did this philosophy move to the big stuff, where a free lead was seen as a way to improve on an aid route.

[pigsteak]

thx for the ammo cammo....

like i said, just trying to learn the rules of trad

[rjackson]

Sport - Clip as you go.
Trad - Plug as you go.
Sport & Trad - Don't fall before you clip the anchors...

Pretty simple.

[pigsteak]

so when gumbies toprope gear climbs they should never ever say they went trad climbing...

[rjackson]

Can gumbies say they went "sport" climbing when they TR a sport route?

[pigsteak]

thats the thing jackson...for some reason gumballs have this wierd affinity for tradlines, perhaps because many of them can be scaled in tennis shoes:)