RRC Archives

dustonian wrote:Your mom is stirrin' up a big ol pot of shit. What time is dinner?

She's got a crock pot goin today. Gonna be a long stinky day today but it makes the turds so tender!!

The basis of any good thread is pot stirring. At least that is what your mom said last night.

dustonian wrote: Darkness Falls for sure... excellent route! Don't forget about Table of Colors, American Dream, Tuskan Raider, Beer Belly, and Taste the Rainbow...

Yeah thanks for reminding me, beer Belly for sure.

This is the dumbest thread since the "Least hospitable base of a route" one. dumber even I say [sniff]!

der uber wrote:And I have never thought or heard anyone say "yes this route is really good, because it follows a plumb line"

You gotta be crazy! You've never heard anyone say this? I mean, replace "plumb" with "really direct" and I think I hear it fairly regularly. IMO, it often affects the aesthetics of a route as a result of probability. We often enjoy low-probability things because they have a sense of being special, and this is definitely the case on direct lines with few other routes to either side.

Plumb lines at the lode: not so special.
Plumb lines like King Me: a bit more special.

So, I guess I would say I have to take into account the isolation of the route, too.

That being said, I wouldn't say to skip bolting a route because it wasn't plumb. Welcomed Guest is a nice route that dog legs hard, but is still definitely worth the bolts IMO.

I dunno, King Me kinda doglegs left at the roof start, then right, then doglegs left again on the upper slab before going back right to the anchor... therefore, it is clearly choss. And don't even get me started on obvious piles like Super Dario, Amarillo Sunset, Air-Ride Equipped, No Redemption, Crosley, Black Gold, & Abiyoyo!!

Spikeddem wrote:You gotta be crazy! You've never heard anyone say this? I mean, replace "plumb" with "really direct" and I think I hear it fairly regularly. IMO, it often affects the aesthetics of a route as a result of probability. We often enjoy low-probability things because they have a sense of being special, and this is definitely the case on direct lines with few other routes to either side.
.

I rarely hear reference to a lines directness. Maybe more so in trad?

Movement and rock quality are huge factors whereas a line's directness is of little importance.

Dogleg Left and Dogleg Right, errr I mean Demon Seed are great routes as well.

Dogleg Left is Semen Deed. One of the best!

I have a hard time with that left and right thing... got em back asswards!

New pic from Tommy Caldwell's crappy Dawn Wall project... 5 years wasted on all that 5.14 traversing!!