krampus wrote:There are not enough low 12 trad routs in the red though. Its like you gotta jump from 11c to 12c in one step..
true enough, but there must be dozens of 12- routes in the Red that could be lead on gear---head and shoulders comes to mind, and maybe pine, bmt, dave the dude?
anyway, it's up to you because it's all i can do to climb 10's, sport or trad.
Working hard to close the gap. I am all but convinced that trad is intrinsically more difficult. The learning curve seems steeper with sport. One reason might be that trad is wilder, less house-broken than sport.
We are going to have to find more gear routes in the ref. Dustin Stephens pretty much has shown us that they are out there to discover.
Buut since you also seem to be collecting data for a project...
Hardest redpoint...
Sport - 12b
Trad - 11d
Able to work and usually send...
Sport - mid-high 11
trad - mid-low 10
I think of myself as...
Sport - a 5.10 climber
Trad - a 5.6R climber
Like everyone else I'd love to close the gap and I it is happening, mainly due to a failing sport ability that is allowing my mediocre trad climbing to catch up.
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Hardest Redpoint...
Sport - 12d
Trad - 11d (I've climbed 11c R trad lines that were harder mentally than the 11d trad lines I've done)
I'm not trying at all to close the gap... I haven't climbed a trad line in probably 4 years and I don't see myself trying a trad line any time soon... maybe if sport climbing stops being fun to me then I'll switch back...
There are always outliers. While certainly not trad, an argument could be made that if you can't afford to fall it's not exactly a "sport" route either.
