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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:34 am
by clif
did this involve the Inhibitor?

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:59 am
by dustonian
Cromper wrote:
dustonian wrote:used to be 3 rules in freesoloing: don't fall, don't spray, always make sure you can (probably) downclimb. somewhere along the line rule #2 got lost.
You can witness that rule 3 got lost with me as well.
LOL!! At least it was a high-end route, Honnold! ;)

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 2:54 am
by Cromper
clif wrote:did this involve the Inhibitor?
I wish it was as cool as that haha

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:20 am
by clif
yeah, i've free soloed the first three jams of that route, down climbed and never told anyone about 20 times. i'm not counting this.

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:34 am
by whoneedsfeet
Free soloed my basement steps today without the banisters or walls for balance, suck it Chris.

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:43 am
by clif
right on. i opened my canned peaches with just my finger. have you thought about replacing the steps with a climbing wall?

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:58 am
by whoneedsfeet
No, cause at least when I'm hammered I can slide down the steps on my ass and not have to worry to much.

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:00 am
by clif
sounds like what you've got in your basement is better than what i've got

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:36 pm
by camhead
dustonian wrote:used to be 3 rules in freesoloing: don't fall, don't spray, always make sure you can (probably) downclimb. somewhere along the line rule #2 got lost.
When was #2 ever the norm? Even by today's definition of spray, Bachar publicized the hell out of his exploits (the wager sign in camp 4, TV specials, photo ops).

And yeah, I tend to think that, for me, soloing becomes contrived when you have to end in the middle of a blank face and rap/lower off (Chainsaw, BOHICA). But for other people, it is fine. Most of us think soloing at a crowded crag is rude, and it probably is by the mainstream standards of climbing culture. But why doesn't a noob misusing a cinch evoke the same discomfort and hostility as a free-soloist at a crowded crag?

Most of us get uncomfortable at a strong mutant soloing a 5.12 in front of us. A guided group will get uncomfortable at a 5.12 climber soloing a 5.8 handcrack in front of them. A bunch of tourists may get uncomfortable at any of us climbing roped and taking whips in front of them. It's all a sliding scale.

Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:40 pm
by dustonian
that's true, Bachar was kind of a spraylord in his earlier days.