Climbing Around Colorado Springs

[The3rdear]

To be honest, I didn't look at Boulder Canyon. Not really sure why either. Maybe it's because I've got some friends up around Denver. I figure they'll have the beta and I'll make it up there from time to time. I don't know anyone around CS, nor do I know anyone who's climbed around CS, so I'm mostly curious about that area. But yea, it looks awesome! Thanks for the advice.

[milspecmark]

Well I climb in the Red all the time and I love it. I think Boulder Canyon is just as good if not better.

[vertical1]

Shelf and the South Platte areas are best for outside of CS. Shelf is a lot of fun, and you can chase sun or shade to climb year round there. Less than an hour from CS. There is a ton in the South Platte area, and a new guidebook just came out. Also, you are prob not far from 11 mile canyon as well. Get the Mountainproject app for $5. It is the best bang for your buck.

[dustonian]

Well I climb in the Red all the time and I love it. I think Boulder Canyon is just as good if not better.

HAHAHAHAHA good one!!!!!! Boulder Canyon = 3 or 4 good trad routes and a million grid-bolted chosspiles.

[vertical1]

Well I climb in the Red all the time and I love it. I think Boulder Canyon is just as good if not better.

Dude, I live in Boulder and I just spent the month of August in KY because its so good. Spent part of the last three summers there, not counting some springs and falls. BOCAN is good, but no F-ing comparison to corbin sandstone. There are some classics, but no where near the concentration of quality lines like just about any crag at the Red.

Please come to your defense and list some of these high quality routes/crags that can even closely compare to Military, Left Flank, Funk Rock, The Gallery, Drive-By, Bruise Brothers, or The Lode. I tried to hit a wide range of grades, BTW.

[vertical1]

Well I climb in the Red all the time and I love it. I think Boulder Canyon is just as good if not better.

HAHAHAHAHA good one!!!!!! Boulder Canyon = 3 or 4 good trad routes and a million grid-bolted chosspiles.

BOCAN does have about a dozen high quality sport routes also, mixed in with the 1000 or so mediocre to poor quality, grid bolted, chipped, chossy, dirty, or just plain not fun routes that it has.

[milspecmark]

I guess I just don't have the experience to make a good comparison. I climbed only 2 days in Boulder Canyon and I prob. jumped on the classics. They were great. I have climbed in the Red prob 30 times and I love it as well. In my experience, climbing "Lust" at Avalon was much better than climbing at Bruise brothers. I also like how you can do multi pitch sport routes in boulder canyon. I loved wrinkles in time, and all of those climbs next to it. There are over 50 3 or 4 star climbs in boulder canyon (On a 4 star scale). I guess I just can not see living in CO and being like, man.....this place sucks....Sorry if I sounded like I was putting down the Red, the Red is still my favorite.

[vertical1]

Living in CO does not suck, but comparing individual climbing areas here to the Red does not weigh in favor of this place. Now on a different note, you do get more variety of rock/choss to climb on here. I can do granite, gneiss, sandstone, conglomerate, basalt or limestone, where as the Red is just one type of rock. But that type is probably the best climbing medium there is. Weather is also MUCH better here in CO.

[dustonian]

I don't know about that, Eldorado Canyon, Lumpy Ridge, RMNP, and South Platte are world-class trad areas and blow the Red away for sheer "climbing experience", IMO.

Oh yeah, Clear Creek Canyon near Golden has some decent sport too. Rifle is worth driving too for sure, but probably not for the 11's. That said, you can do a couple trips there and have fun on the incredibly polished, glassy 11's there.

[milspecmark]

Eldorado Canyon was breathtaking. I loved the hike there. I like how they had a sign that said no running. Mountain lions might chase you.lol