RRC Archives

I am inclined to believe that computers and keyboard ergonomics have almost as much to do with tennis and golfers as climbing does. When mine flared up I was roofing my home gym, working at the keyboard a lot and climbing. PTs had me use rolling forearm excercises, light weight forearm curls form all positions, and thera bands. They also had this shock thing that they used (not a tens) that shocked medicine into my elbows and ultra sound therapy. Insurance paid it all almost. Rest on top of that will hopefully keep it at bay.

It is funny you should mention that. My finger pain last season and elbows this time....all started after I took a part-time job that involves reading on the computer, typing, sitting in a bad chair all day. Never had these problems before that. Although I don't really have time to go to pt, with two jobs and driving to the red every weekend. I will try to amp up the exercises.

Get a better chair, or at least a back support. Many of these "migrating injuries" actually originate in the spine.

sleeping in wrist braces just keeps the tendons tight. Do the heavy eccentric palm up wrist curls and you will notice a difference very quickly.

ok, I will try your suggestions....thanks!

I've had several people suggest a Flexbar from Thera-Band in the past. It didn't work for me but that was because it turned out that I had biceps tendonitis and I'm just an idiot that couldn't describe the condition accurately.

http://www.thera-band.com/index.php

No amount of posting on RRC.com will make your injury go away.

My advice is to suck it up and climb some easier routes.

I had to take 8 months off due to golfer's elbow and some additional shoulder issues. The golfer's elbow pain never went away but became tolerable. A couple of weeks after climbing again it came back. It wasn't until I started doing a very specific massage on my forearm every night for 10-15 minutes that it has almost completely gone away. Before that I tried every trick on the market (therebar, arm-aid, eccentrics, massage, etc.). Each night I put lotion on my forearm and beginning at my wrist rub up to my elbow and back down to my wrist with the back of my knuckles. I use pretty firm pressure. I'm not sure why it works but my theory is it relaxes the forearm muscle which eases the tension on the tendons. With this technique I don't even touch the bony bump where the pain is. In addition I've chilled out on bouldering hard on pinches since squeezing hard like that all the time isn't very good.

SCIN wrote:Each night I put lotion on my ________ and beginning at my ________ rub up to my ________ and back down to my ________ with the back of my knuckles. I use pretty firm pressure. I'm not sure why it ________ but my theory is it relaxes the ________ which eases the ________ on the ________. With this technique I don't even touch the bony ________ where the ________ is. In addition I've chilled out on ________ since squeezing hard like that all the time isn't very good.

Mad-libs, anyone?

Toad, nice!