Trying to understand the bolter's mind...

[bcombs]

Perhaps the FA just was learning and didn't want to mess up a classic with a botched bolting job? I see your point about it being at the Lode, but I don't know that we want to go down the path of "your crappy route doesn't belong here in this land of milk and honey".

[pigsteak]

bcombs, I doubt she is saying that...I don't think there is seriously anyone who thinks that Lode is a classic crag, let alone the best crag at the Red.....

[Andrew]

Because bolters get to do whatever they want.

[pumpout2004]

The route in question is actually pretty darn cool in the bottom third, and will likely be found to be quite difficult at the 5.10 grade. It also has a similar style to ball scratcher (slabby, technical, kinda sketchy). Ergo, one could argue it fits pretty nicely as an addition to the cliff. With that being said: the climb is dirty, the top half is boring and stupid, and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

[krampus]

much like anal sex, this route is fun until about half way when it starts to get dirty. Then you begin to question what you are doing...but you finish anyway.

[krampus]

piggy - define classic. I would say that the Mother Load is as classic as any crag out there. Its old and it's knows across the world for is volume of quality routs between 12 and 14. It's the meca for narcissistic chuffers for crying out loud. And now its open for gumbies who might be into anal too.

[pumpout2004]

might be?

[lena_chita]

I don't think the grades of climbs at a crag should have anything to do with deciding whether or not to bolt a new line. The route isn't all that bad. It isn't my style, but I don't mind it being there.

The guy who bolted it is a buddy of mine and he likes vert, slab, techy stuff. It may not get as much love as 8 Ball, but hey, it's there and people can get on it if they choose. Not that big a deal.

I don't mind the route being there, either. Based on the info in the online guidebook, I would not be getting on that route anytime soon, but its' presence certainly doesn't inconvenience me in any way.

But while it is not that big a deal to me, it seems like it IS a much bigger deal for the bolter to actually do all the work. And I was wondering what's the payoff? It's not like the Red is all bolted out and the only new routes to be had are either bad-quality ones, or the squeeze jobs. That's what is behind my initial post.

A bolter could certainly say, well, I can bolt, I bolted this route for myself, because I wanted it, I really love it, and all of you guys who think it is crappy can piss off and go climb something else. This way I am guaranteed to have my favorite route all to myself whenever I want to climb it. I guess that would be a valid reason...

[krampus]

might be what? The means by which we create a new Roadside. I like the idea, after all, the masses seem to love the mediocrity that already exists there. Lets just find some crappy 7's in the area and tell everyone they are good, it worked for the undertow.

[pigsteak]

I bolted it to piss off lena chita..she better get on it so the world will know it is a mega classic;)

krampus, surely you jest. I don't think 1 in 50 climbers could say the Lode is a classic or even great area with a straight face. There are a few, very few, ultra classics there but most of the routes are exactly the same. one always manky hold down low, sketchy fixed gear, degraded base, public toilet around the corner, sandy rock, chalk caked holds. just stand at the base and look down the undertow wall....every. single. climb. the same.

I even know some Lex folks who only go to the Lode. for real? you see your brahs at the sweaty sack gym twice a week, do you really need a third fluff fest at the Lode? Bruise brothers puts the Lode to shame.