Tower of Power Repeated!

[Yasmeen]

lol, thanks, Wolf I had to act fast before Andrew pulled out his sick MS Paint skills and put mine to shame.

[Andrew]

lol, thanks, Wolf I had to act fast before Andrew pulled out his sick MS Paint skills and put mine to shame.

I was almost done with it, but now you ruined the surprise.

[toad857]

This route looks cool. So, there's a big loop of webbing slung around the nose of that thing, then attached to another to keep it from slipping off? Does that sound right?

[caribe]

This route looks cool. So, there's a big loop of webbing slung around the nose of that thing, then attached to another to keep it from slipping off? Does that sound right?

lasso the prow; snug it with an overhand knot; run horizontal protection to keep it from slipping off the prow in case of fall, couple small cams on long runners or more webbing.

[LK Day]

That's right, Toad. The photo is from the second time I did this pitch, sometime in the early to mid '80s. Both times I protected it more or less the same way. That is I unknotted and then tied three full length slings into one big loop, lassoed the flake then clipped it to a piece back under the overhang to keep the big sling on the flake. I chained together three slung hexes to reach the piece back under the overhang. Does that make sense? Perhaps Dan figured out a better way to protect the flake so you should get his beta as well. There is an absolutely bomber 1.5 tricam (slotted, not cammed) just above the lip of the overhang. Have fun and stay safe. I was typing at the same time as Caribe. I like his suggestion to snug the sling with an overhand knot.

[LK Day]

And don't even consider falling before you get the tricam in. I still think the slung flake is more a theoretical piece of protection. A theory we'd probably be better off not testing. I've added another photo to the online guide. It shows the runner at the lip (tricam placement) and some small wired pieces that I fiddled in while sitting on the big flake. I do not recall the wires as being very confidence inspiring.

[caribe]

And don't even consider falling before you get the tricam in.

If it did not scare you to death, and if the prow would not come down on you Wile E. Coyote-style, I think the fall would probably be clean!

[Crankmas]

how can anyone not like trad climbing? Thanks for reopening my eyes guys

[LK Day]

The head game of trad always held great appeal for me. I think I enjoyed solving challenging protection problems almost as much as the climbing itself.

[pigsteak]

biting my tongue....