RRC Archives

We were writing our posts at the same time - that wasn't a sarcastic comment. I loved it! I didn't get to the last pitch because we ran out of time (and calf strength), but I really, really want to finish it! I can't remember how many draws I had with me, but I know I used all of them on the second pitch - bring 18 or so.

no worries man. I just didnt want him to be scared away from such a great route. I would recomend being a solid 10 leader before getting on it though. I have to agree with the guidebook statement, its not the most accurate I have used. My toes hurt for months after that route. My stub of a big toe still does not have all the feelings back.

If someone is on Prince of Darkness you can do Dream of Wild Turkeys, which is right next to it and also very classic (the second should know how to ascend the rope though if they fall on Dream of Wild Turkeys). Also, all of the belays on Prince of Darkness are hanging belays just so you are prepared.

Dream of Wild Turkeys looked like a killer route.Its a touch harder and ran out a bit more isnt it. When we did POD we started at daybreak. By the time we rapped off there were like 3 parties on DOWT and 3 or 4 on POD. Start early!! The belay stations are the rappel stations, with that many parties on a route it gets aggravating dealing with all the flying ropes and the hanging belays dont accomadate 4 or 5 people very well at all.

Dream of Wild Turkeys is very, very good. I don't have a guidebook handy but I think it was mid-5.10. It also can be linked up with the route in between POD and Turkeys, which I think is called Yellow Brick Road (??). Also pretty good. I second everyone else's suggestion to get an early start though. The hike can take some time and if you are going to do POD you want to be first in line for sure. You used to be able to camp out by where the trail starts for Black Velvet Canyon - not sure the status now.

Red Rocks is just west of Vegas baby.
You WILL love it!!

The way this guy is talking, he wants to get on Solar Slab, which he says he's done before, but wants to do it again and that it would be a good "intro to multi-pitch" climb. I know Solar is only rated at 5.6 or something, but I don't care. The guy described Solar as long, beautiful and scenic, which is exactly what I want out of this trip. I am lead onsighting .10a's sport, but haven't really touched much inbetween .10a and .11a (Vandalism was my last climb of the day, which I was unable to finish and had to rest even while rope jugging through certain sections, beause it was MY turn to clean the damn route...I HATE "cheating" through sections!!! ). I would rather use less energy and really enjoy the whole climb than "bust nuts" and run out of gas 5 pitches up. I REALLY need to get a good camera, too. I want to preserve this in more than just my mind.

This whole trip is going to kick ass. I'll have a sportbike to ride the whole time (which eliminates "car-camping") and get to simply ABUSE those wonderful California curves. I might even run through Bishop for some bouldering on my way back to SF

I got some friends out in Vegas that Maybe you could hook up with.Have a place to crash,take a shower.You wanna know him?PM me.

if you get a chance to hit bishop, do it. same goes for the crowds, but bouldering with a crowd is easier to handle than mulit pitch party lines. Red Rocks is full of moderate multi pitch lines. Have a good time man.

Looking at the map, I can take the mountain roads from bishop back to SF...on my sportbike!!! And maybe stop in the Sierras and camp for the night and do some hiking. Holy crap is this going to be an incredible trip.