Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 4:35 pm
Yeah, we have almost identical lifestyles.Andrew wrote:Daniel woods seems to sport climb well.
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Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
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Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 4:40 pm
I can boulder harder than V4, V5 or I think V6 if I work a problem. Man, I just don't know if I a down with hitting a gym associated with TR.camhead wrote: While it is true that quite a few RRG 13a's don't have moves any harder than v4, climbers who max out at v4 in the gym and can still send 13a are outliers, and incredibly rare. I'm not sure why, since I'm pretty new to the training thing myself, but I'd predict that, by the time you send a 13a, you will be bouldering harder than v4; either because of specific training, or because repeated runs on your project will by default make you stronger.
Oh, and you're in Columbus, right? If you want to really train for fall sendage over the summer, shoot me a message and I'll hook you up with our co-op gym. Way better facility for power-endurance than VA.
Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 4:58 pm
I would think most 5.13 climbers don't have any trouble with v6.
Training endurance is probably sufficient for the red though.
Training endurance is probably sufficient for the red though.
Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 6:37 pm
The short answer is no, you don't need to.
The better answer is yes, you should anyway. If you're already approaching 5.13, I'd suggest that you're training be mostly bouldering, focusing in blocks of power and power endurance. General juggy endurance comes fast... in just a couple of weeks... faster if you've had it before. Power is a much harder thing to gain, and will allow you to do harder moves without ever becoming anaerobic, thus increasing your "endurance" by default.
Not to mention, if your time is limited, power training is far more efficient. 4 or 5 hours a week in the gym is more than plenty to grow your power.
The better answer is yes, you should anyway. If you're already approaching 5.13, I'd suggest that you're training be mostly bouldering, focusing in blocks of power and power endurance. General juggy endurance comes fast... in just a couple of weeks... faster if you've had it before. Power is a much harder thing to gain, and will allow you to do harder moves without ever becoming anaerobic, thus increasing your "endurance" by default.
Not to mention, if your time is limited, power training is far more efficient. 4 or 5 hours a week in the gym is more than plenty to grow your power.
Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 8:09 pm
Like I've said before just go do Paradise Lost, I know it gets 13a but it's super easy and soft for the grade and no moves harder than v2! I you can do it 
Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 10:10 pm
Andrew wrote:Daniel woods seems to sport climb well.
So what's your excuse then?
Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Posted: Fri May 25, 2012 12:23 am
Depends on how good your technique is.