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Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:26 pm
by clif
it is possible that the gradual reintroduction of climbing to GFNP begins with limited guiding provided by the owners. it almost seems reasonable.
and damn dustin, i was sure you were a covert operative when i learned your last name was Stephens, doth thou?
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:42 pm
by KD
Oh my god! " All you goddam hippies need to get your permadraws and hammocks the hell out of here Now ... "a guide service is available for paying customers." This is some funny shit for sure. AND a an Access Grant to top it off. My Daddy used to get in trouble for cashing paychecks and loaning a few dollars out, but this scammy shit is supported! Funny stuff. On the other note- I always wanted to see the sunset from Nautical Twilight but haven't done it yet.
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:47 pm
by dustonian
GStephens wrote:We noticed that what appear to be homemade permadraws have been installed on several route without our knowledge. I would like to know who took it upon the self to install these. They are unsafe as they appear to all have hardware store quick links connecting a few line of chain to the bolt hangers. These are not rated for climbing and have not been tested. In short, there is no quality control of these, nor do they appear to be stainless steel. At the end of the chain is an aluminum carabiner. This carabiner should be stainless steel so that it has the same materials properties as the other components - that is, steel. We all know about the cut rope at Muir last year due to carabiner wear. Think about the aluminum carabiners on these homemade permadraws and how the ones at crus sections will see hundreds of falls as compared to those on your own rack.
Also, this paragraph is not true. The biners were steel, and the quicklinks and chain were the same grade steel you see on thousands of anchors on routes throughout the Red and the rest of the world. That said, it is obvious that consent should have been obtained before they were placed, although I believe it was more an act of ignorance rather than willful disregard for the landowners' wishes.
No, I did not place them, as there are far more exciting things in the RRG to waste money on.
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:57 pm
by climb2core
Ha, I think MarkM unwittingly opened a can of worms...
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:58 pm
by Spikeddem
What a horrible tease of a topic title to see on the front page...
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:02 pm
by dustonian
What's wrong? It is open. Awww... too poor????
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:15 pm
by cliftongifford
There hasn't been any guiding at GFNP since it's closure. The few people that climb there do so with permission, for free. If you have a problem with John or Grant, maybe you should try contacting them, get together, and spew the same rumors and shit talk to their face.
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:16 pm
by dustonian
Someone is special!
BTW I did "try contacting" Grant back in the fall, before and after wasting several hours of my life cleaning up other peoples' messes for no good reason, and got the same response everyone else in the climbing community got, except a few close buddies apparently: the cold shoulder.
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:46 pm
by Josephine
KD wrote:Oh my god! " All you goddam hippies need to get your permadraws and hammocks the hell out of here Now ... "a guide service is available for paying customers." This is some funny shit for sure. AND a an Access Grant to top it off...
The RRGCC worked together with the GFNP to apply for an Access Fund Grant. This grant is
contingent upon a plan for reopening for public access. At this time, as no plan is in place, the funds from this grant have not been distributed. The RRGCC is still hoping to work with both Grant and John in the future to reopen access to Roadside.
For more information about the grant, see
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... ccess+Fund
Re: Roadside Crag Open??
Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:40 am
by MarkM
Damn, didn't know this was as involved. Guess I'll be headed to Military wall or Muir this week. The moral of the story is I need to learn trad climb.