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Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 3:34 am
by EricDorsey
I loved Maple. Great camping, cool little canyon to hang out with friends, and tons of climbs you can walk to from your campsite. The rock can be a little loose but most of the popular routes are pretty clean. I liked it more than American Fork but maybe that was just me.

Check out the Uintas too. Sport climbing at 9,000 feet so if you are out there mid summer its the perfect place to go. Ruth Lake is still one of my favorite places to climb and camp.

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:11 am
by Cromper
I second Dorsey, I LOVED maple! Definitely worth a trip. Just remember to bring a helmet.

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:15 pm
by Shamis
maple's pretty cool. I recall Logan canyon being the slickest limestone I've ever climbed on...I wouldn't recommend it. American fork was pretty good. Little cottenwood canyon is good. Big cottonwood canyon not as good. Also lots of decent small crags up in the Uintas if you want to escape the heat in the summer.

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:31 pm
by robert birchell
check out Ten Sleep Canyon in Ten Sleep Wy.
Great Summer Climbing.

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:07 am
by THB
Thanks everyone for all of your beta!

Phil - I'll definitely try to hit you guys up when we are out there.

We have between 4 and 6 weeks and the places where we are planning on going are:

CO front range for sport climbing and bouldering (clear creek canyon, boulder canyon, rmnp for bouldering and route climbing, the monastery (which is technically rmnp i guess), eldo, mt. evans, etc, etc... i'm good on all the guidebooks for this area)

rifle, co (i'm good on this guidebook)

maple canyon, ut (i'm good on this guidebook)

american fork/mill creek, ut (this is why i asked for everyones beta... obviously the guidebooks for this area are less available and less specific)

ten sleep canyon, wy (i'm good on this guidebook)


little cottonwood and big cottonwood are mostly bouldering (which wasn't good during the summer time from my past experiences) and trad climbing (which i'm not interested in doing much of on this trip), right?

maybe i'll check out logan canyon if i have the time...

also, i've been to wild iris (up in wyoming), but i don't have a guidebook for this place... any beta for a good wild iris guidebook?

thanks again for everyones help!

cheers,

todd

Re: guidebooks for utah climbing

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:45 am
by EricDorsey
I lived at the bottom of Big/Little Cottonwood the past 8 years so know a bit about those areas...

Little Cottonwood has bouldering at the mouth(which will be really hot during summer and not much fun). There is a good amount of sport climbing but its not the highest quality... But if you are in the area check out Hellgate(limestone sport and 2 minute approach) and Albion Basin up in the Alta Ski Area, those areas are at least at the top of the canyon(8,000+ feet) and will be nice and cool. Again not the best sport climbing but the location and weather can't be beat. The best climbing in Little Cottonwood is trad and in summer you will be climbing on the south side of the canyon(north facing), it has some great lines if you are bringing a rack I would head there over any sport/bouldering in Little Cottonwood.

Big Cottonwood has some okay sport climbing with small approaches as well. Check out the Storm Mountain and S-Curve areas. Also some pretty good trad lines but I know you said you weren't interested in that. Really the best beta for utah climbing is mountainproject.com.... Tons of up to date info on there.

But really for good summer time sport climbing near SLC the Uintas are hard to beat. Beautiful scenary, cool temps, and some pretty good sport climbs(better than anything in big/little anyway). If you are driving in on I-80 its about 45 minutes out of your way to get up there(close to park city kinda). Again lots of info on mountainproject and there is also a new good guidebook for the uintas.

Have fun man sounds like a great trip.