Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:55 pm
toad857 wrote:Caver's route. felt like a 5.8 to me.
Heck yeah, especially with no gear!
Heck yeah, especially with no gear!
Page 2 of 5
Heck yeah, especially with no gear!
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:57 pm
Goog list. Hampton once told me Sassafrass is a sandbag.I never found it. Zambiezie has a long OW section. I would add the 8's at Tower. all good but the cruxes seep on the east side. Buzzards N. is awesome ! belay after the first little tree. do Into the Purple for sure. Shock and Awe is really good too.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:01 pm
dustonian wrote:You just suck at offwidth. But yeah, DAB is harder. Don't forget about Arachnid. Oh yeah, and Dog Days, another stellar 8+ sandbag, much harder than Africa. First Fall at Sanctuary and Good Times at ESB. Rocket Man and Muscle Shoals at MB, When Gravity Fails is a really killer easy 9 too. The Shining and Sharp at Lady Slipper.
Man so many good trad routes at that grade in the Red!
I walked over to Arachnid and checked it out a couple weeks ago and decided against it until I am extremely solid at the grade. It looks pretty hard for 5.8 and I also don't think I have the gear for it. I only have one 6 and it looks like i would need two to feel comfortable after pulling the roof. Trying to stay away from the offwidth 5.8s, I also suck at them, hell I couldn't even send Casual Corner
.Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:10 pm
Arachnid is miles easier than DAB. The offwidth isn't the crux. I didn't use a 5 or 6, but I guess you could cram it in.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:39 pm
dustonian wrote:...but I guess you could cram it in.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:51 pm
you know winter is upon us when we start talking abut all the non climbing issues at hand: trad routes, politics, and religion.....
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:59 pm
"Trying to stay away from offwidth 5.8s"
Now that's hard to do, definitely the crux of the entire effort. The only reason climbing in the red river gorge wasn't popular prior to the emergence of sport climbing was the ubiquitous and dreaded 5.8 offwidth.
Now that's hard to do, definitely the crux of the entire effort. The only reason climbing in the red river gorge wasn't popular prior to the emergence of sport climbing was the ubiquitous and dreaded 5.8 offwidth.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:02 pm
OK piggie, go do the third ascent of Tower of Power and tell me Trad is a non climbing issue.pigsteak wrote:you know winter is upon us when we start talking abut all the non climbing issues at hand: trad routes, politics, and religion.....
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:08 pm
The Christmas crack at Bob Marley is fun, we might have done it together a few years back?
The Shining for sure, short but fun. If you go do Vision also walk back to the end of the crag and do Casual Viewing.
The Shining for sure, short but fun. If you go do Vision also walk back to the end of the crag and do Casual Viewing.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:09 pm
I did Rocket Man and Dicey in one go. Rocket is more offwidth in character than Dicey but Rocket was still easier for me. The offwidth was the not the issue with Dicey. The constant gluteus clench necessary to keep the feet on the wall was the issue. It mystifies me how people can find the grades between the two of them similar.dustonian wrote:You just suck at offwidth. .... Rocket Man .... at MB