RRC Archives

Andrew, you have forgot how far you have come from when you started and you don't realize that you (thanks to your dad) have some pretty great athletic genetic potential going for you (He was a division one track athlete for those of you who don't know his dad,), I don't believe anyone can climb 5.14, I agree that a good percentage of those that made it to 5.13 if they had the right coaching (usually from themselves) the time and the resources that they probably could tick off a 5.14, but there are a ton of climbers out there who will never get to 5.13, as for the ape index I don't think anyone has ever correlated a positive ape index with being a good climber, Adam Ondra has a negative index, I have a +4" index (and I suck), I do think that what keeps most climbers a long ways from getting close to their potential is not genetics but poor self coaching and lack of a commitment to getting better

I can't wait to tell Timmy he's the subject of "over-the-hill" crushers.

How many of you people posting have been on at least, oh say half a dozen 5.14's? If so, you may have some idea of what it would take to climb 5.14. But for me, it is just some arbitrary number. I have no idea how 5.14 or 5.15 would feel and hence have no idea how possible it is to achieve.

If mike Doyle can climb 5.14 then anyone can

allah wrote:If I can climb 5.14 then anyone can

Good point.

can anyone run a sub 10 sec 100 meters? no way.

can anyone run a sub 2:05 marathon. no way.

can anyone run a sub 3:50 mile? no way.

and these levels I mentioned are not even the elite standards, but more akin to climbing 14a....training will take you further than you dreamt, but genetics can not be denied.

Kenny is a good example. Over a decade ago, he and I did Nicorette together. Wasn't at our limit, but we didnt onsight it either. Flash forward 10 years, and Kenny has reached the grade, while I have not. What was so different about our glide paths?

Its absolutely fascinating to me to look back and remember those days. I'd love to go back in time and tell Kenny, you are going to climb 5.14. To tell Ray, you will do some of the most beautiful and desperate crimp routes in the Red. To tell Kris, you will do most of the Madness Cave and not really even be pumped. I can just see the young versions of themselves smiling at me and saying "I wish".

Good job, fellas.

Yeah, remember when Andre the Giant climbed that rope in "The Princess Bride" with the Inigo Montoya and Vizzini on his back. He didn't even use his legs. That was a 5.14 easy.

heavyc wrote:Andrew, you have forgot how far you have come from when you started and you don't realize that you (thanks to your dad) have some pretty great athletic genetic potential going for you (He was a division one track athlete for those of you who don't know his dad,), I don't believe anyone can climb 5.14, I agree that a good percentage of those that made it to 5.13 if they had the right coaching (usually from themselves) the time and the resources that they probably could tick off a 5.14, but there are a ton of climbers out there who will never get to 5.13, as for the ape index I don't think anyone has ever correlated a positive ape index with being a good climber, Adam Ondra has a negative index, I have a +4" index (and I suck), I do think that what keeps most climbers a long ways from getting close to their potential is not genetics but poor self coaching and lack of a commitment to getting better

Jerry, what you forget is that I don't train one bit and my climbing schedule might be the most irregular thing on the planet. I purely climb the grades that I do out of genetics and trickery. I truly feel that I could climb 5.14 if I was given the time to dedicate myself more to climbing, especially just a regular schedule of outdoor climbing.

I have seen so many body types climb 5.14 that I really don't think physical genetics are the limiting factor, but time invested, training, and a person's mentality are the true limiting factors. Not everyone can, but the vast majority could if given the time, training, and mental focus. Granted those are some pretty big variables.

I guess I should also add starting before a certain age.

I think there's a huge difference between "climbing 5.14" and "climbing a 5.14". I like to think of the guy who works for years to climb a 5.14 as the Dominos pizza delivery guy who saves all his money to buy a Porsche but still lives in his mom's basement. He drives down the street, picks up chicks, but can't bring them home. The guys who are actually climbing 5.14 are the guys who drive a Porsche but also make bank and own a Lambo and a yacht, and have women like Charlie Sheen. Andrew could possibly have a chance at the Dominos pizza guy scenario.