Subtle ways to SpraY

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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Post by Guest »

I hope that is a piece at your foot, man!
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Jeff
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Post by Jeff »

Yeah, his massive calf muscle has it hidden 8) .
Wes
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Post by Wes »

Good times is super cool, and super scary! Doppler is just super cool. My first "10". Ah, such memories of 15 foot falls from the chains.

/spray
Sent dreams after well over 20 tries and many, many falls from the lip. Got it on the last go of the day. Feet cut and just barely made it. Made good progress on WDC, might even be able to send it this year. Sunday, sent two of the 10d/11a routes at the arena. Just barely. Took the victory jump from the chains on both. /spray

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
merrick
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Post by merrick »

ok I want to play to... actually i really wanted to spray about this few months ago.

Here is my plan for spraying subtlely. I am posting these pics of me sending a problem below but I won't spray and tell you guys how hard it is. But one of you will ask me in a post "how hard is that problem". Then i will humbley tell you. Is that subtle enough?

Image

Image
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Wes
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Post by Wes »

Sads?

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
merrick
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Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:01 pm

Post by merrick »

happys
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Guest

Post by Guest »

I'll bite,how hard was it.
merrick
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Post by merrick »

Funny you should ask. It was my first V7. The problem is Action Figure at the Happy's in Bishop. I used the old sequence with a double match on the undercling rather than the new easier chipped hold so the grade still stands. It rocked!
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Wes
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Post by Wes »

J.H. wrote:I'll bite,how hard was it.
Two V grades lower then what the guide book says. It is Chufafornia, after all.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
merrick
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Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:01 pm

Post by merrick »

you know, people often say that, but i don't think it is true. especially with mick's new guidebook and the subsequently adjusted ratings. I have walked just as many 'hard' problems at hueco or joes than i have at bishop. I have also gotten shut down by 'easy' ones all over. and the milk's grades are definately stiffer than other places despite the fact that they are located in cali.

in the spirit of spraying i will say that the sequence i used on action figure felt equivalent to problems of the same grade i worked at hueco and joes.
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