RRC Archives

Andrew wrote:I seem to spend most of the year on the other side of training.

which explains alot.

I'm sure it's different for everyone. For me, 4 or 5 days off after several weeks of 3 days a week bouldering can mean a jump in power. My endurance is so overtrained that I'm not sure it ever goes away... I just forget how to use it after months of bouldering. 2 or 3 sessions and it's back to normal. My bet is that most elite climbers (no, I'm not including myself in that bracket) experience this same thing, as very few actually "train" endurance... they just spend a couple of days getting fit and crush everything.

I start to lose endurance after about 6 days, and I'll continue to lose endurance if I only climb once a week. I need at least 2 sessions a week to maintain endurance.

Power definitely seems to stay with me longer. I don't see a big drop in that until about 2-3 weeks out.

I'm pretty much a professional 'other side of training' kinda guy, so if you have any questions about rapid weight gain and excessive drinking, feel free to PM me.

Shamis wrote:I start to lose endurance after about 6 days, and I'll continue to lose endurance if I only climb once a week. I need at least 2 sessions a week to maintain endurance.

Power definitely seems to stay with me longer. I don't see a big drop in that until about 2-3 weeks out.

I'm pretty much a professional 'other side of training' kinda guy, so if you have any questions about rapid weight gain and excessive drinking, feel free to PM me.

i didnt read your whole post, but thanks for using the word "lose" and not "loose".

Actually For me it depends on how hard and how consistent my training was prior to stopping. If I have trained hard (for me) for the last month i feel I can do up to a week. If not I notice effects sooner. I feel like endurance goes first too...