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Re: Need a new project
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:07 pm
by steep4me
Rollo wrote:You would do scar tissue pretty quickly... one hard move for short people guarding the chains... think high step.
Ok-- I am definitely going to check it out! I am getting psyched for Fall with some fresh routes to focus on.
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 10:06 pm
by tyler.yarbrough
As long as you have muir valley available to you - you should check out the Solarium - you've got Abiyoyo which shares a start with Banshee (11c) and has clean falls, Super Best Friends, which is really steep with super clean falls, and Magnum Opus another very quality 12a. Not to mention the Arsenal right next door with some of the best warmups and a realllllly badass 12b in bullfighter (athough the dyno at the first bolt might not be the best thing for a shattered ankle) Can't wait for the fall as well, happy climbing.
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 10:30 pm
by Andrew
reload at the arsenal. Its a very soft 12c
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 1:06 am
by climb2core
Superbest Friends
Abiyoyo
Wearing out My Welcome (beginning is very well protected with high 1st bolt and then next 2 bolts 4 feet apart each).
Far From God
Mercy the Huff
Wild Yet Tasty
Mosaic (soft 12c)
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 4:06 pm
by climb2core
So, which one was the winner?
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 4:55 pm
by clif
Surprised no one mentioned Check your Grip or Whipper Snapper at Drive-By. Sex Farm is near both Infectious and Mercy, so that's a three way, always a go.
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 9:41 pm
by toad857
oh yeah, check your grip is a must do.
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 3:37 am
by steep4me
So...I am pretty psyched on these suggestions. Leaning towards Scar tissue, far from god, mosaic, and super best friends. Left flank is a bit of a hike for me for projecting. I have been on mercy twice. Once felt pumpy but doable...second time felt hard! I have also heard about a 12b at bronough wall. Still contemplating and eating ice cream. Training starts next week. I will get to the red by labor day! Thanks again for the suggestions!
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 3:47 am
by steep4me
Oh yeah...I have done check your grip on TR. Not steep enough for me to want to fall on on lead. Good route though.
Re: Need a new project
Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 1:58 pm
by Artsay
The beginning of SBF may not work for you because the path of least resistance trends out right which makes it a pendulum swing/fall with a ledge below. Go do it on TR and see what you think. Also I would cross Scar Tissue off your list because the hike is too steep and rooty for your precious little ankles.
Go to Shady Grove!!! You already got Far From God on your list (fantastic and Perma drawed) but False Idol and Irreverent C are both steep 12b's right next to it and are really good too.