RRC Archives

pigsteak wrote:if I am not mistaken Josi, Lynn's accident was NOT from cleaning...she merely started climbing without finishing her knot, and when she "took" at the anchors to be lowered......zip.

Well at least the fall would be small if that happened to me... I almost always weight the rope before the second bolt.

pigsteak wrote:if I am not mistaken Josi, Lynn's accident was NOT from cleaning...she merely started climbing without finishing her knot, and when she "took" at the anchors to be lowered......zip.

Right.

A reminder that there are practice anchors installed, about 8 feet up, all over Muir Valley.

If you are new to this game, please use them. And if you see newbies fumbling with cleaning, please suggest that they spend a little time at the practice anchors.

In Muir, although we prefer that you rappel after cleaning, to save wear on the fixed gear, please don't take this as a rule. Use whatever method and gear you are comfortable with to get down safely.

weber wrote:A reminder that there are practice anchors installed, about 8 feet up, all over Muir Valley.

If you are new to this game, please use them. And if you see newbies fumbling with cleaning, please suggest that they spend a little time at the practice anchors.

.

I'm installing a set of practice anchors on the bouldering wall that I'm building here at LOTA campground. I'll have the AMGA cleaning instructions posted next to it along with a backpack size on card stock that people can take with them. I'll be happy to show anyone the process once It's finished.
I had to show the guy that took me climbing the first time that I could clean on my own two feet up before he would agree to take me out.

100% of climbers SHOULD know this!!

My first time doing it 60 feet up on a route, it wasn't any trouble at all. I just did everything in the order I had learned.
These accidents can be avoided if people learn what to do.
Climb Smart People

You are trying to say, " Smart People DON'T Climb".

Smart climbers make mistakes.
Dull climbers make mistakes.
Experienced climbers make mistakes.
Newbie climbers make mistakes.
Practice and paying attention to detail minimize the occurrence of mistakes.

weber wrote:Smart climbers make mistakes.
Dull climbers make mistakes.
Experienced climbers make mistakes.
Newbie climbers make mistakes.
Practice and paying attention to detail minimize the occurrence of mistakes.

Gear companies make mistakes too. I believe there is a thread running right now about some sort of recall of a new belay device.
Your last line is the secret Rick. Attention to detail will lower the odds of something happening. That's what I ment.

Makes me wish I had the focus to read through the last line of most posts

Rick was just channelling his inner poet.

pigsteak wrote:Rick was just channelling his inner poet.

He forgot one more type of mistake...

Pigmistakes. Maybe another route: Pigmi Stakes (this would be a pile of choss that you bolted) or Pigmi Steaks.