RRC Archives

Monster OW is "11+" and renowned for eliciting vomit reflexes in 13+ sport climbers. I got pretty tooled when following it, that's for sure. That said, if Steph Davis can "project" her way up it, I'm sure you can too.

Dustonian, I disagree. I found Valley cracks (and JTree cracks) to be quite a bit easier than advertised. Maybe I just like granite. Maybe learning the grades in Vedauwoo helped with the transition. Regardless, my hardest flashes back in the day when I sucked at climbing were in the valley and jtree. I always felt more comfortable on vertish cracks than super steep ones...

Funny, everywhere I've read, they call it 10d or 11a. Before I sport climbed, all my hardest sends were offwidths. They just aren't scary anymore.

Yeah, you are decidedly an outlier then... granite must suit your style better. An onsight of Free Rider would be pretty proud!

http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurit ... hefree.jpg

Huber lists the Teflon as 12d. I've heard from Sean Leary that the Huber (boulder problem) pitch is now 13a or b, but maybe someone found an easier sequence. He uses the chalk-covered blown jug as a (way oversized) paperweight!

Believe it or not, even the ridiculously glassy "11b" slab pitch on Freeblast is a tough onsight... seen numerous 5.13 sport climbers blow their attempt way down there.

I have no delusions about an onsite. Its just the last in a short list of long routes i'd like to do eventually. Frankly, I might be more psyched to do a french free or mostly free ascent of the original Salathe, just for the historical aspect.

I know that the traverse into the MO is 11d... are you sure that isn't what the topo indicates?

Hm maybe. The OW itself though is way stout no matter what you rate it, especially at the bottom. The traverse is easy by comparison IMO... but then, maybe I'm just a puss.

Yeah, a fast French-free ascent of Salathe is one of the best possible days of climbing out there... 75% of that route is 5.11 or below! Highly recommended...

Lots of people seem to onsight the West Face of Leaning Tower these days (13a, excluding the bolt ladder at the start)... a bit easier in the grade perhaps? Or at least shorter!

see who can swing the biggest wanker...don't get hit from all the jizz folks....I can't even place gear, otherwise id say something smart ass....

pigsteak wrote:see who can swing the biggest wanker...don't get hit from all the jizz folks....I can't even place gear, otherwise id say something smart ass....

But you already did!

All them gadgets won't actually hold in this chossy sandstone anyway....

lol...i know.