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Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Sat May 07, 2011 1:03 am
by bob
I think that the "park service" already has things set up ... no need to bring draws.
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 1:09 am
by steep4me
I think you should try it. You will have all the answers after a few routes!
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:13 pm
by Yasmeen
I think this falls into the category of working too hard to be lazy. It sounds good at first, but I think that higher up on a route, it's less work to pull up rope, bite it, pull up more rope, and then clip. For another example, those long swooping pulling up enough rope to clip while letting it slide through your hand as you reach up for the draw clips seem like they work best when there's very little friction in the system. I've found that most of the time, trying the long swooping clips, I just end up doing a bunch of smaller tugs on the rope as I get it closer and closer to the draw, which is more tiring than just biting it and pulling up another armload. I think the clipping the draw to the rope experiment would end the same way - tug, tug, tug, tug, tug, tug, clip.
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:56 pm
by tutugirl
businessprofessional wrote:It seems like clipping this way would up the chances of getting smacked in the balls by the draw if you take a whip while trying to clip.
I think you can get hit on the head ...
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 6:16 pm
by TradWanker
Yasmeen wrote:I tug, tug, tug, tug, tug, tug.
Thanks, Yaz, you made my day!!
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 6:17 pm
by Yasmeen
Nicely done, buddy.
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 12:05 am
by hypro
I saw someone doing this not to long ago; he also used a large jumbled knot attached to a locking beaner while leading and teaching his belayer to use an ATC.